Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



Visit the new site at vcca.org

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Rate Thread
#212108 07/03/11 01:52 PM
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 689
Oil Can Mechanic
OP Offline
Oil Can Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 689
I removed the armored cable from the top of the coil on my '35 Master in order to replace the coil. The insulation on the wire housed in the cable (ignition key assembly to the coil) is frayed and should probably be replaced. I need to get to the area of the electrolock where the wire is. Does anyone know how to take the key assembly apart? I'm speaking of the electrolock assembly, Parts Book section 2.188. Thus far I have the key tumblers out and I've taken the two major halves of it apart but I can't seem to get access to the wire at the base of the iginition assembly.
Please help before I destroy it completely!

Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 176
Shade Tree Mechanic
Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 176
Coachhill,
Since you have the electrolox opened up. You will have to remove the brown plastic pc which should be easy to remove as nothing is holding it in, then at the bottom is the 2nd brown plastic contact part with the wire attached, that is pressed in. Take the two terminal screws out and tap gently on brass terminals or press them into the electrolox sleeve and that should give you clear access to the wire. I just rechecked one that I have taken apart a few minutes ago. This should work.


Walt D
1934 Mstr 4 dr/sidemnts
1937 1/2 ton P/U
1953 Bel Air HT
1946 Aeronca 7-AC Champ
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 689
Oil Can Mechanic
OP Offline
Oil Can Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 689
Thanks for the advice Walt. I wasn't sure if the brass contacts could be used to drive out the plastic base. I also received an email photo from another VCCA'er that shows dimples in the outside of the housing that pinch the contact base in the housing. He suggested using a tiny Dremel bit to grind these down to free up the base.
Thanks much for your help!

Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 147
Shade Tree Mechanic
Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 147
Iam also replaceing the wire in my 1936 electrolock armored cable. With following the instructions in this post I now have mine apart, pretty easy to do. I want to know if there is anything special about this wire, is it a heat resistant type or just a regular cloth covered wire. Also what gauge is this wire?
The reason I am asking is, before I owned the car the electrolock was repaired, and was repaired with a plasctic coded wire. While at the anniversary meet in flint, it was hot and while in line for the field check it just cut out and couldn't start it back up. What happened was the plastic on the wire melted off and grounded out againts the armored cable.
What do you suggest on a wire type? I want to avoid this happening again. Thanks, Ken


Ken Ippolito
1936 Master Deluxe Town Sedan ,1938 Master Town Sedan, 1950 Styleline Deluxe
CHEVROLET, The only complete low-priced car
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863
Tech Advisor
ChatMaster - 25,000
Offline
Tech Advisor
ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863
You can use 14 gauge cloth covered wire if you like.

laugh wink beer2





The Mangy Old Mutt

"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 147
Shade Tree Mechanic
Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 147
Thanks Skip,
Sounds good, I just wanted to make sure that there was nothing special about this wire. As long as I have it apart is there anything else that I should check for before I put it back together? The only thing that I found was, it was a little dirty like black greese stuff on the inside. any extended help would be greatly appreachated. Thanks again, Ken


Ken Ippolito
1936 Master Deluxe Town Sedan ,1938 Master Town Sedan, 1950 Styleline Deluxe
CHEVROLET, The only complete low-priced car
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 7,046
Likes: 107
Hall Monitor
ChatMaster - 7,000
Offline
Hall Monitor
ChatMaster - 7,000
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 7,046
Likes: 107
Solder your new wire to the end of the old one before you pull it out. This will pull the new wire through as the old wire comes out. Sometimes trying to feed a wire through a small conduit can be a challenge. This eliminates that challenge.


VCCA Member 43216
Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet.
1938 HB Business Coupe
1953 210 Sedan
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 596
Oil Can Mechanic
Offline
Oil Can Mechanic
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 596
Originally Posted by Cheif
I am also replacing the wire in my 1936 electrolock armored cable. With following the instructions in this post I now have mine apart, pretty easy to do. I want to know if there is anything special about this wire, is it a heat resistant type or just a regular cloth covered wire. Also what gauge is this wire?
The reason I am asking is, before I owned the car the electrolock was repaired, and was repaired with a plastic coded wire. While at the anniversary meet in flint, it was hot and while in line for the field check it just cut out and couldn't start it back up. What happened was the plastic on the wire melted off and grounded out against the armored cable.
What do you suggest on a wire type? I want to avoid this happening again. Thanks, Ken

There is an excellent article on wiring by Mike Mavrigan in the July 2011 "Hotrod & Restoration" magazine.

One of the things he mentions is the different types of insulation. The PVC coating on most the wire we use melts when subject to high heat. Another coating called crosslinked polyethylene is designed to handle the higher temperatures. That is probably what you should use if you are using modern wire to replace the original. It tends to get pretty hot inside that narrow metal housing!

Of course, if you have cloth coated wire you won't have to worry about that. The original wire is 14 gauge, so that's what you should use to replace it whatever type wire you use.


Richard
Waverly, IA
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 147
Shade Tree Mechanic
Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 147
Thanks all of you for all the info. I ordered the correct wire today. Thanks again, Ken


Ken Ippolito
1936 Master Deluxe Town Sedan ,1938 Master Town Sedan, 1950 Styleline Deluxe
CHEVROLET, The only complete low-priced car

Link Copied to Clipboard
 

Notice: Any comments posted herein do not necessarily reflect the official position of the VCCA.

Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5