VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 brake drum interchange?

Trying to convert my 31 to hydraulics.Purchased 1936 pedal,master cylinder and backing plates and assorted shoes,springs and hardware. What year drums and hub can I use? Will 36 and later drums fit my 31 hubs? Any help greatly appreciated, Howard Dennis

I forgot to mention the rears will be taken care of via a later model swap for both brake and higher ratio. I only need help on the fronts. Thanks, Howard Dennis

Howard, Your 31 uses the same front wheel bearings as the 36, assuming we are talking about a 36 Master. If the spindles are the same length, the 36 front hubs and drums should go directly onto your 31. Now, all you have to do is get the backing plates mounted in the correct proximity to the drums and you are good to go. This does not address the issue of the shape of the drums and whether they will accomodate your 31 wheels and give the correct track width. Wheel/tire position, relative to the king pin is critical to proper handling and steering geometry. I am interested in your plan for the rear axle, and allow me to split hairs on this, I believe a LOWER ratio gives a HIGHER speed.
Mike

Mike, Thanks for your help and you're quite right.I should have added the word "speed" between higher and ratio.I'm planning on using a modern Chevy truck or one of the Japanese SUV rears with 6 lugs and around a 3:73 ratio so I don't kill the old 6.

Howard,
How do you plan to deal with track width and open/closed driveshaft issues?

Mike, I haven't gotten down to actual measurements yet,thus the multiple modern candidates. Open driveshaft would require a sealed rear bearing and a yoke conversion/fabrication. The early **** hotrodders have done it for decades.

Howard,
I have thought about this type of conversion to open driveline many times over the years. One thing I have wondered about is whether or not the rear springs will handle the torque of the rear axle housing once the closed driveshaft is not part of the system. They were designed to deal only with the up and down duty of the rear suspension.
Another option might be to use a 37-48 rear housing with torque tube and gears from a 53-54 stick shift car. They were 3.73 or 3.90, I don't have a catalog handy. I also don't know about track width. I'm sure the driveshaft and tube length would have to be modified. I used this setup to speed up a "52 pickup using 3.55 gears from a 49-54 Powerglide car. Aint this fun?
Mike

Howard

Years ago I converted my 32 Roadster to front hydraulic brakes by simply reaming out the king pin holes on the front axle and installing a complete set of 50 Chev spindles, brakes, wheels, etc. For the rear brakes I used the entire 50 Chev rear end. I think it was about an inch shorter but worked fine. I believe the rear end ratio was 3:73 as Mike mentions above. The track width came out about the same as original.

Herb

Herb,
I'm guessing howard wants to retain his original wheels with 6 lug bolts.
Mike

Mike's correct, I'd like car to appear all stock. Not knowing Chevrolets later than mine, would the 1950 still have 6 lugs?

Do you realize that Larry Jackson makes Ring and Pinion gears with a 3.50 ratio for 1930 - 32 passenger and half ton and is planning to make 3.36 ratio for 1934 - 36 Master Deluxe and 1934 - 39 half ton? . .
Give him a call: (805)441-2627.

I believe that 1948 was the last six lug chevy passenger car. What are you using for a master cylinder?

Sorry about the master cylinder question, I actually am able to read. What is the concensus on converting to hydraulic brakes on an otherwise original early thirties chevy? I care less about car show points than I do about driveability

Your limitation on stopping is the amount of rubber on the road. With a properly adjusted manual brake system and correct woven linings all four wheels can be slid on pavement. If you don't believe it come to Texas and we can show you on several old Chevrolets. Besides you don't wonder if the brakes will work the next time out.