VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 Master Cylinder Re-sleaving

Does anyone have a recommendation on who can re-sleave a master cylinder on my 36 1/2 ton? It has reached the point where honing and a new kit won't do the job. Yikes, no brakes now.
Thanks Richard

Hi Richard,

Finally someone brings up the proper method of rebuilding brakes.

I have done numerous brake jobs on antique cars and placing sleeves in the master cylinder and all wheel cylinders is the only way to go. It costs just a bit more to do it correct, but the longevity outweighs the cost.

Basically, all 4 wheel cylinders and the master cylinder are sleeved, and new kits installed. This can be done with some badly pitted and rusty cylinders. Clean out all brake lines and then flush them thoroughly. Brake fluid is not that expensive and is the correct method.

For expert work, send your items to: Sierra Speciality Automotive, 3494 Chandler Road, Quincy, CA 95971-9628 Phone: 530 283-1886, FAX 530 283-4845

Try
Brake and Equipment...Minneapolis...www.brakeplace.com

Apple Hydralics...New York...www.applehydralics.com

Angeli Machine...Burbank,Ca...818-846-5359...

The going price for a master cyl. is $60.00-and once its reseleved it should last a life time.

Try Sierra Specialities. They are located in Quincy, CA. Telephone is: 1-800-4-BRASS-1. Email is: sierrasa@psin.com. I hope that I have these numbers right. I've used them for 5 or 6 master cylinders and I've been very happy with the results. In the past they paid for the return shipping, probably still do.

When u get them done get stainless sleeves fitted and generally dont need to do them until some b****y idiot breaks the casting.

Thanks for the information.
Richard

I've had Apple Hydraulics do mine and was very pleased. Came back in a couple weeks looking brand new.

I just had the master cylinder re-sleeved for my 57 chevy. The price Including the kit Installed was 120 dollars. Hagans machine shop and auto parts In Puyallup Washington. Phone number 253-845-7020. They have a ton of old car parts for all different years and makes of cars.

I just purchased, for a total of $180.00, a nos master cylinder, and (4) wheel cylinders for my 36 1/2 on Ebay. If you keep an eye out they come up all the time.

A warning to anyone installing a NOS brake cylinder--These parts can be over 40 years old--DO REPLACE THE INTERNAL RUBBER PARTS with fresh overhaul kits from a modern supplier.Often the old rubber cups have turned soft and no longer safe to use.Never buy old stock kits on Ebay-they are all available "new"....and for a reasonable price.

Hi professorpat,

You would be ahead of the game if you had invested that money into putting sleeves in the master cylinder and 4 wheel cylinders that are currently on the vehicle. Even if you follow the advice of Chev Nut and replaced all the kits in each unit it will be a very short time until the new cylinders start to corrode and rust on the inside and you job will be for naught. Our antique vehicles do not receive enough use to keep the brake system exercised and hot enough to keep the impurities out of the systems. Even more reasons to do the job correctly. Although installing sleeves is not a PERMANENT solution to your brake problems, it is as close as you can get.

Brake fluid has not been addressed in this string, but DOT 3 is the recommended fluid over the exotic fluids.

Sierra Speciality Automotive charges $65.00 for a brass resleaving or $115.00 for a complete rebuild. Both include return shipping. Nice guy.
Richard

Ray is correct.I have replaced and overhauled many wheel and master cylinders during the years I have owned my 1939.Never had any resleeved as I have a good supply of new ones,The stainless or brass sleves will last much longer than the cast iron bore of the originals..I also have had silicon fluid in it for the last 25 years and found that its not the answer either.Do manage to change fluid in my cars every couple of years-silicone(Dot 5) or Dot 3.Dot 4 fluid is worse than Dot 3 as it contains more glycol (for higher boiling point) and will absorb even more moisture.Also in winter I will pump the brake pedal a few times every month or so to keep the parts "moving" and lubricated.

Since the subject has been mentioned: I also have DOT 5 and have not been too pleased, so plan to switch to DOT 3 when the master cylinder comes back from resleving. Is there anything special I should do to purge the silicone fluid from the system or will a good long bleeding do the trick? I know the fluids don't mix.
Richard

The two fluids will not mix but there will be no problem if a little of the Dot 5 is in the system.If you change over from Dot 3 to Dot 5 and some Dot 3 remains you will not get the full advantage of the Dot 5 (if there is any).One advantage of Dot 5 is that it will not harm the paint.Disadvantage-any moisture in the system is not absorbed by the fluid and will stay in the low spots of the lines and cause rust.

The ideal set up would be to have the system sealed (not vented)so the humidity from the out side air could not contact the fluid and be absorbbed.Like newer master cyls. with the diaphragm type cover gasket.The other problem is that the Huck brake wheel cylinders do not have a rubber boots over the ends to help prevent moisture from entering - and thats where they rust first when stored.

Use iso-propyl alcohol to remove silicone brake fluid. Make sure it is 100% alcohol and not rubbing alcohol that has 15-25% water in it. If you sleeve your cylinders, stainless is recommended over brass. Also flush the brake system with fresh brake fluid every two years. Believe it or not but water can get into the system through the rubber hoses. Happens with both Dot 3, 4 and 5 fluids. The heat from braking helps force the water out of the fluid.

Also flush and refill the cooling system every two years. I worked in the automotive group for the worlds largest brake fluid supplier for many years. We did the majority of the development for Dot 3, Dot 4 and Dot 5 fluids. They were also number two in automotive coolants.

Just wanted to add something regarding whether brass or stainless sleeves should be used. Brass is more prone to corrosion than a 300 series stainless steel. If you are concerning with longevity, I would review the choice of material with whoever is doing the resleeve work for you.
Also remember the cost of material (brass or stainless) is trivial when compared to the labor and machining time involved in doing the work.