VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 935-C generator on 36 FC

I have over $500 dollars and four trips to the shop and the “technicians” at the shop are telling me I am melting the solder off of the armature because it is the wrong generator for my car. I have spoken with Junk Yard Dog and Gene about this. The generator on my 36 FC is a 935-C. I know that is not the right one, but you guys also told me how to connect it and it was on the car when I bought it. Besides If I had not told them it was not for my model, they would not have known the difference.

I believe they don’t know what they are doing or do I not know what I am doing?

Melting the solder off the armature is due to too high a temperature. If generator output amperage is too high then the heat generated will sling off the solder. What is the output that they set it for? The unvented generators can only put out 12 amps or so before they overheat. For the early vented models above 20 amps you are asking for trouble. Don't have enough knowledge of the 935-C to know if it is vented or not.

If the technicians know what they are doing they will not set the output above the safe level no matter what vehicle it is installed on.

OH OH I just got back from the generator repair shop and the generator that was in my FC was NOT a 935-C but a 935-V
What is it?

The correct generator for your 1936 Standard is a 946-C. The maximum output should be adjusted to 12 to 15 amps hot.

The 935-V generator fits a 1935 Master and the maximum output on that generator should be 12 to 15 amps hot. On both generators I prefer the output to be 12 amps hot.


Yep, you came to the correct conclusion! At $500 for generator work you are definitely in the wrong place!!

Even though the 935-V generator is incorrect for your car, when the generator is wired correctly for that application and when the output is set up properly the generator will work just fine on your car.

Are they putting the wrong armature in?

That's a possiblity.....however, they should catch that when they set the output of the generator at 12 amps on their generator test bench.

What is the output of the generator on the amp gauge when you are driving the car?

The amp gauge was only about 1/2 way up the + scale when it was working, but after about 50 miles it was flat, not + or -. I guess I had thrown the solder off the windings by then. The "technicians" told me today they could not get the amperage below 20 on a bench test, but they didn't tell me that when I picked it up the last time.

At 20 amps, that's your problem. The output is too much. If they can't get the output below 20 amps most likely they have the wrong armature installed in your generator.

Sounds like the dudes working on your generator have no clue as to what they are doing. If they were familiar with that generator and its application, they should have never let your generator leave their shop with that high of an output...especially if they couldn't get the output lower than 20 amps. Find another generator shop!

Will do

Thank you

You bet!

One more question; After I have the generator properly repaired, What is the correct way to install it in my FC?

As I recall, I think I gave you the wiring instructions a long time ago when we first talked about your generator.

Yes you did and I still have them. Just wanted to make sure it was the same.

Thanks!

If you still have the same generator the wiring hasn't changed. But, the first thing to do is to get your generator fixed correctly with the right armature by someone that knows what they are doing and then have it tested and the output set for 12 amps.

Way bck then I incorrectly identified the generator as a 935-C and I discovered it was a 935-V. Your directions were;

To use the 935-C on your 1936 FC you will have to ground the field coils to convert the generator for use on your vehicle. You can either ground the field coils to the case internally and by-pass the extra terminal post, or you can connect a wire to the terminal post and then ground the other end of the wire to the generator case. Then install the cut-out as normal......the wire coming out of the generator attaches to the "Gen" terminal on the cut-out and the "Bat" terminal on the cut-out goes to the ammeter.

I am guessing the same applies to the 935-V?

Yes.

Have your generator tested and the output set on a test bench first. When they set up your generator for the 12 amps, make sure that the field terminal post is grounded to the generator case as described above. And when you install your generator, make sure that you polarize it before starting your car.

Black Bird,
I sent you a PM. Let me know if I can help you out in any way.

Just a follow up on the 935-V. The 2nd shop was very helpful and the technician would call me on every step he was taking. After he had it reassembled he put it on his test bench and ran it through the paces with me watching. He ran it at several RPM settings and at no point did the amps go above 14. He then ran it for an hour at cruising speed with no problems.

I returned to the garage where my mechanic was installing the new harness and the next day he called & said it was ready. I ask if he polarized it and he said “ uh no” I disconnected everything and reconnected and did the polarizing thing.

I have been running it over two weeks now with no problems, (at least not with the generator). The amp gauge runs around 13 … 14 at cruising speed and drops to neutral or slightly … with lights on.

Sound good?

That sounds great!!

That's what I was hoping you'd say