VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 Wood you?

My '26 has had the wood bed replaced with plywood. Although it serves the purpose, it just doesn't look right. I can use it for a good template and have everything line up just right. My question is what kind of wood should I use? I live in Florida and could use cyprus (native), or oak (also native), maple or whatever. I tried search and did not find any other posts that specifically talked about the types of wood so here goes. Also, what do you suggest the new wood be treated with? Should I stain it, seal it or what? How about rust from contact with bolts and stuff? Any suggestions are appreciated, especially those from experience.
tks much,
Jerry

Hi Jerry,
I used ash on mine, and clear finished it with automotive lacquer. 3 coats. It turned out great.
Thanks
John

John, did you use solid ash or cabinet-grade plywood?
tks,
Jerry

Jerry, I used solid ash. The original wood seemed to be painted pine. I selected ash for its hardness and color.
Thanks
John

Solid wood would be the type by choice. Ash would be a good choice.

Plywood would be a bad choice as it was not used for beds on trucks.

Look for entries by Chipper as the authority on trucks.

Originally most truck beds were clear pine. Long leaf in the south and white in the north. I do have an Oakland assembled '20 truck with redwood bed floor boards. The beds were treated on the top side with a poor quality paint, more like a stain than paint. Have only seen a few drips on the bottom sides so apparently it was for minimum protection and looks.

Today I would use what ever wood you want and get at a reasonable price. Ash, oak are commonly used for replacement. Cypress would be great as would teak, cedar, mahogany and a few others but are not cheap. The more tannin in the wood the longer it will last. Black locust is another good one but not generally available unless you know someone that is trying to eradicate a patch. It is insidious and pervasive. Makes excellent fence posts too. No self-respecting insect will touch the stuff.

All good advice . I am a joiner by trade and have done a few ute (pickup) trays, One thing to avoid is Cyprus it is too brittle a timber and with the flexing of the vehicle will splinter and crack, RAYCYCLED

Wow, Ray, that was totally unexpected. I would have thought cypress would be the number one choice because it would never rot or be on the insect menu. So, I am back to oak, maple, ash or some other substantial wood? Just yesterday I emailed someone that rough cuts wood to get a quote on cypress. Maybe I should ask about the other hardwoods too.

I could use some advice on how to keep the wood looking new. Three coats of lacquer is a great idea but I don't know if I have the equipment to spray it on with. I was hoping (easy way out) I could brush it on!

I've learned more on this site in a couple of weeks than I've learned my whole lifetime (about vintage vehicles). And, I can't get enough of. I've enjoyed all the posts and appreciate everyone's help and suggestions.

tks,
Jerry

Just my opinion but I would opt for treating the wood with a preservative or stain and not paint or varnish. Varnish is for furniture and boat decks. Working surfaces don't need a surface that can chip off. I used paint on oak bed boards once!

Hi Jerry,
Do not try to brush on the lacquer. It dries way to fast, and will not level. If you do spray. Put the first coat on light. Let dry completely. I sanded with a random orbital sander with 220 grit. Put on second coat at 4 mils wet. Sanded by hand with 320. Applied third coat at 4 mil wet. All done. Make sure you seal all sides of your wood so no moisture can get in. Wood is like a sponge and will bring in moisture at any open pore. If you can seal all surfaces to wood has lees opertunity to expand and contract with moisture. Also automotive lacquer has a built in flex factor over and above furniture finishes.
Also another reason I used ash is it has a very dry property to begin with. It needs very little time to either air dry (prefered for this application), or kiln dry.
Thanks
Woodbutcher

Woodbutcher, if I can get my work to come out looking like yours did, I will be one happy puppy. Your woodworking is to die for and certainly to be proud of. I appreciate the instructions and will try to make it a work of art as you have. I am serious when I say this site has taught me more in two weeks than I've learned in a lifetime. I am so appreciative and honestly believe I can do most anything with so many folks backing me up and offering advice. I hope I haven't become the pain in the a$$ new kid (I'm 64) that is taking up all the space for questions, I really don't mean to. But, everytime I get a question answered it reminds me of something else I wanted to ask. I am just so glad to have expert people to ask questions of that I've become the pain. Sorry folks, I'll run out of steam sooner or later. Thanks for your patience.

Jerry

Hi Jerry,
I enjoy sharing some of the little knowledge I have. One other thing if you do use oak, you really need to seal it well where it contacts metal. Even though it has been kiln dried, oak contains acid. If it is not completly sealed where it touches metal, you will get rust quickly.
Thanks
Woodbutcher

Jerry aka heavyhands,
Please do not stop asking questions. We too are getting an education just reading all of the answers.

I am going to use the just received info on finishing wood on my hard to keep looking good deck furniture.

HA, HA this stuff is usable in a world other than old vehicles.


Thanks for asking questions,
Bob D.
27 Chev Coach "Matilda"
and
Bev D.
52 Chev 4 Door Styeline Powerglide "Bluebird"

Hi Matilda and Bluebird. Thank you for the encouragement, it makes me feel a little better about being a "hog at the table" and I didn't even come from a large family!

Woodbutcher, I am going to try to find ash but I don't think it is common in North Florida. Oak is probably more like what is available. There are other hardwoods like maple or pecan or even camphor (but it would make me smell like a traveling cough drop). Also, I think ash if available would be a special order (read expensive), so oak is looking real good to me, especially if I can find it rough cut. What about cherry, that would be unique but maybe not hard enough? I promise to seal all sides, ends and edges. I intend to drill all my holes before sealing and hope I don't miss anything..

I'll make everybody a deal. I'll keep asking if you'll keep reading and every now and then commenting.

Oink the table pig,
Jerry

The problem with southern red oak is that it is inferior to most other oaks. You might goggle wood types and then compare properties. Black Locust is a great wood but not generally available. If you find it the prices are reasonable.

Chipper, is that like mesquite, which is native to the mid-west and considered nuisance wood? I know it has beautiful grain but I don't know how it would weather. So many choices...so little time.

tks,
Jerry

If you tell a BBQ fan that mesquite is a trash wood they will vehemently disagree. If you tell a South Texas rancher they will wholeheartedly agree. Since it is not a native wood for that area it truly is an invasive species. Does make great custom furniture as it contains inconsistencies that make each piece unique. It like Black Locust has low decay rates and high moisture stability.

It is rather obvious heavyhands has never had a steak cooked over mesquite. What a treat...Joe

Hi Joe, with this truck all I can afford are hotdogs! But if I sell the truck........

Hi Jerry,
I sent you a PM
Woodbutcher

I got it and sent (I hope) some pics back to you. Let me know if they did not arrive or if you cannot open.

tks,
Jerry

Hi Jerry,
I recived your pictures. It is the same as mine, and I know mine is a 1928 as it still has the data plate on the seat riser.
Thanks
John

Hi Jerry,

I have a friend in Georgia who does selective tree cutting and processing. He has some white oak available right now that he says would be great for your truck bed. He could also come up with other species if you want.

If you are interested e-mail me at accipiter3@msn.com

Hi Richard, how thoughtful of you. What part of GA does your friend live in? I'm wondering what the proximity to Tallahassee, Florida is. I would also of course be interested in how much he needs to get to enable him to sell. Sounds exciting.

Thank you for your interest and taking the time to contact me.

tks,
Jerry

No problem. I've known this guy for a few decades, and he knows his wood. He is using the white oak to put a new bed on his heavy equipment trailer but has plenty left to cut the boards you'll need. I hope you got hold of him and the two of you can work a mutually beneficil deal on this.