VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 35 CHEVY STANDARD

I'LL TRY THIS AGAIN. LOOKING FOR A PILOT BEARING OR PART NUMBER. HAVE NOT HAD MUCH LUCK IN FINDING ONE.

The 1935-36 Standards used the same bearing as 1931-39 (except 1933-34 Standards)..In 1952 the Chevrolet part number was 907109 and the New Departure bearing number -ND7109.A fresh new bearing should be available from a bearing supply house.

The bearings are also listed in Chevs of the 40's catalog for $22.00-should find one localy for less.

Thanks chev Nut. Must be a ball bearing from the part number inlo of a bronze bushing.

The 1929-30 used a brass bushing The 1933-34 Standards used a brass bushing as did all from 1940 and up--they used the the same bushing as the '33-'34 Standards.....Did your '35 have a ball bearing in it??

I haven't got everything apart yet but I hope it's ball bearing. I wasn't very happy to fine out that you have to move the rear 3rd member to get the joint off the tanny. I also found out that the joint on the standard doesn't have bolts. The tranny was supposed to been rebuilt and the leak in the front tranny shaft fixed. Real funny that the "U" bolts on the 3rd member have never been lose.

Rex, are you sure about removeing the 3rd member (The differential and ring gear and pinion)?Or the rear axle since you mentioned U bolts.

Doesn't the torque tube have a sliding bell over the U joint? If any member should have been removed I would think it would be the cross member the tranny is bolted to, or do I have the wrong driveline in mind?

Every Chevy torque tube driveline I have worked on (and I haven't worked on every one) only needs the following:

Drop the brake shafts, and emergency brake apparatus (cables brackets, equalizer, rarely the muffler and tailpipe,clean the torque tube behind the sliding bell joint so that the seal nut can be loosened and the bolts taken out of the front mount on the bell joint then the bell slid back all the way exposeing the Ujoint, remove the bolts holding the ujoint together (you will have to jack up a rear wheel so that the driveshaft can be rotated to gain access to the trunnion bolts in the ujoint, when the ujoint is parted the torque tube can be lowered enough that the tranny can be pulled back out of the clutch and the tranny-clutch housing.(The rear axle housing will rotate downward enough)and the tranny can be removed after all the front bolts, rear tranny mount, tranny and clutch linkagesand the speedometer cable are removed from the tranny and clutch. You will need a small jack under the engine pan to keep the engine raized,while removeing the tranny mounting bolts, and then to lower the rear of the engine after the rear tranny mount is removed.

However: some of our members prefer to pull the radiator and/or the front clip and simply part the Ujoint remove the tranny and engine mounts etc. etc. and pull the engine and tranny out the front. That may be the best way for you. Then all re-building can be done in the open and the engine and tranny assembly put back in as a unit.

The 1933-36 Standards had a U joint with the front and rear half riveted together.It was necessary to remove (or loosen) the rear spring U bolts and slide back the complete rear end with torque tube (like a pre 1949 ****) to remove the transmission.Some mechanics chiseled off the rivets and bolted the U joint together-saving a lot of work.This was done back in the days when no one had an air chisel also.

Ok, Gene... I guess old Rex N is on the ball as usual....Then, I believe I would try to pull the engine and tranny as a unit to work on the clutch and the pilot bearing, and operate on the U-joint to replace the rivits with cap screws, that is if the drive shaft and U-joint are splined.

That would be equal to doing eye surgery thru the mouth.In the time it takes to remove just the radiator shell on a 1935 Standard you could have the rear axle pushed back and the transmission out on the floor.

The 1935 std. gearbox can also be removed by undoing the 4 bolts which hold it to the clutch housing and pushing it back an inch or so. With an offset screwdriver undo the 4 screws which hold the diecast retainer and push the main drive gear back into the clutch assembly.Its a bit fiddely but the gearbox can then be removed.Often the diecast retainer is warped or cracked and should be replaced.Here in Australia a brass one was available as a replacement but they are not real common. While the gearbox is out plug the rear bearing retainer hole with a piece of thick cork or similar as the oil just pours out of this hole. Also drill about a five sixteenth hole on a slight downward angle in the housing below the rear bearing to allow any exess oil to returnback into the box. Dont use a sealed bearing here as the universal needs some oil.I also use s.a.e.250 oil in my gearbox with no ill effects as thinner oil seems to have away of escaping no matter what you do.

Well Gents I put a new clutch and pilot bearing in this week end. Moved the whole 3rd member back about 6 inches to get the tranny out. It took me about 14 hours to complete this. Will never do it again. Thanks guys for your insight.
Rex

Hi Rex,

Are we having fun yet?

Did it have a ball type pilot bearing?Does it continue to leak at the front?

And never say never :o

Chev Nut,
Yes it had a ball bearing. I did install a felt seal kinda like what is in the rear wheels of a 31 chevy. The seal was about 1/4" thick and was placed between the slinger/retainer and front bearing. I felt that it couldn't hurt anything and it might help. I put in 1 1/2 pts of 650W Spindle oil that I had left from my machine repair days. So far no leaks. and it works fine.
Rex

IT DOES NOT SEEM FUNNY TO ME THAT THE U BOLTS DON'T LOOK LIKE THEY HAVE BEEN APART SINCE IT HAS BEEN ABOUT 20 YEARS SINCE THEY WERE APART.