VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Electrical - 6 volt Starter, '34 Master

I opened up my starter today to start rebuilding it. In the brush end, there was a large rubber washer where the thrust washer should be. It was smooth on the cover side but had been gouged pretty bad on the inside throwing lots of crud around. The parts book shows a small washer. What should it be, Fibre or brass or steel?

It should be a steel thrust washer.

Thanks JD,

Any particular thickness? Or just someting to keep things from rubbing?

Just under 1/16", .060 is what my stock measured at to be exact. Someone has put a leather washer in yours which was used later on the next series of Delco starters. If you have too much trouble finding one (any starter rebuild shop should have one) I'll put one in the mail to you, no charge. Let me know if I can help you out at all.

I'd like to test my field coils & armature on this starter. The shop manual uses something with a test light which implies a power source. Is it possible to check that with a multimeter? If so, I assume we look at resistance. What reading am I looking for?

Also, The armature and commutator look pretty grubby. What is safe to use to clean them?

Jason, does it fit on the 9/16" part of the shaft or on the short 5/8" shoulder, close to de commutator?

Pat: You can clean them with electrical spray cleaner if needed.

A growler Is best to test your armature, but you can use a multimeter to test all the commutator bars(the segmented copper strips where the brushes run) should have continuity to themselves, but nothing else. The field coils can also be tested for continuity by checking between the field coil terminals.

I assume you are going to turn the armature and replace the brushes?
Richard

Thanks Richard. I installed new brushes but I didn't turn the commutator. I just cleaned it up with fine sandpaper. I also cleaned out between the bars.

Re. my question to Jason above, I drilled my washer to 5/8" and I have about 1/8" end play. I think I should have drilled it to 9/16" so it would rest against that shoulder on the sfaft and keep the edge of the commutator free.

Pat
Those commutators dont look bad but if you do decide to turn them down do so at a slow speed as there isnt much holding them in place and spinning fast and the force of the cutter can dislodge them.
Tony

Pat,
Sorry for the delay. I haven't been back in here in a few days. The 9/16" washer rests on the shoulder, so it goes on the 9/16" portion of the shaft. One easy way to clean the grease is to use brake clean, make sure it dries before assembly and testing (some of it is flammable). You really want to get as much of the grease/oil out of there as you can. Grease & oil on the comm and around the brushes is a big problem that a lot of people over look. I think someone already mentioned this, but a simple ohm meter check on the armature and coils is a basic check between comm and shaft and fields and ground (don't check these with brushes in place on comm). If you any further questions feel free to email @ jason@aerrebuild.com for a faster response.
Good Luck

Thanks Jason,

We must be on the same wavelenght, I was just to give you a call when I found your response. So brake cleaner it is. Also, just spining it with the battery isn't a conclusive test is it?

Connecting a battery and "free spinning" isnt a complete test. It also needs to be load tested.
Tony

Even though it isn't a complete test it's probably the best you got untill you get it on the car. It's at least a good starting point to make sure you got it back together correctly and nothing is shorted out. That's all the local auto parts stores would do as well, and they advertise that they can test starters. As a matter of fact, most rebuilders I know do not have load testers for starters. I personally feel better sending out a starter knowing it passed the load test first.
Jason

The load test I do (not a full load test) can cause injury if you are not careful so I wont post it here.
Tony

I would lap in the brushes by attaching what we call fine 800 waterpaper to the commutator with masking tape and turn the com by hand with the brushes on the waterpaper. Waterpaper is a black carborundum type material.Look at the brushes afterwards to see that none have been cocked sideways by the attaching screw.You want good contact so it will draw 300 amps and put out maximum torque.

Tony,
Does your load test involve pliers? That method can be fun!
Jason

No, I dont use pliers and can see that being fun until someone gets injured. I use a length of 4 x 2 but if used incorrectly that can become a missile just the same.

Tony