VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 1933 Chevy Master Horn, Wiper and High Beams

I saw some posts regarding Horn Issues. When I tighten down the steering wheel, the horn honks constantly. If I release the nut it still honks because the wheel is snugged down. Pull the wheel up slightly on the spline and the horn quits. I have installed a brand new upper mast jacket bushing and horn wire and a new horn button cap, rubber button and S wire assembly. What needs replacing? I am guessing there may be an issue with the installation of the new mast jacket bushing, but I did check it and it is into the column as far as it will go. This is frustrating. I read that Chipper might have a solution/retrofit part?

Wiper: My wiper is not functioning despite good vacuum and a new vacuum line. Can the vacuum wiper be repaired/rebuilt. Is there a rebuild kit?

High Beams: Is it customary for the 6 volt high beams to be barely perceptible?

Did you put in a reproduction or replacement or original bushing? The problem apparently is that either the bushing was not pushed far enough or the "legs" on the horn button are too long. If the "legs" contact the brass plate on the bushing the horn will blow.

Some wiper motors can be rebuilt as long as the casting has not warped.

If the high beams are weak the problem most likely is a bad ground for the light. The more power applied to the bulbs the better the ground must be. It may be the ground on the bulb/socket or ground for the light assembly to light bar and eventually back to the negative battery terminal.

Thanks Chipper. I think the ground at the light bar may be the issue on the Head lights. Everything was rechromed and I might not have a good ground. On the horn, it blows before I even install the button. Just tightening the steering wheel down blows the horn. The bushing was purchased from YNZ Wiring many years ago by the original owner. I bought the car in pieces and installed the new wiring harness and horn bushing from YNZ. If the steering wheel is grounding the horn bushing when I tighten it down, seems I do not have the bushing down in the column far enough, or the bushing is just not a quality reproduction - it might be a bit too thick. The same bushing was used in the 29 to 40 cars. I think I will take out the bushing and install a new one. Any recommendations on who to buy it from? Should I use the Filling Station?

There are several vendors for the bushings including me. The bushings that were reproduced 10+ years ago did not have the quality of the ones I make. Old stock bushings are typically too deteriorated (or rubber too hard) to install and have work well. We spent the time and effort to make a product that would work in the varying size jackets used on these old Chevys. The variation in ID we found was astounding.

Thanks Chipper. Can you provide your contact information?

Got your email from your profile. Thanks

Jolo,If you are looking to get your wiper motor rebuilt I would recommend www.wiperman.com He is located in New York.They have the tools to measure if the housing is warped or not.The housings are made of pot metal and are known to warp.I tried to rebuild my motor but the housing was warped.Finally I found a nos one still in the box on ebaymotors and bought it for $50.00.I opened the top up and put new grease on the paddle.Once I reassembled the top it worked like new.I do see them often on ebay.Good luck,Mike

Thanks much Mike.

Jolo
Try pushing the mast jacket further onto the steering box, it maybe riding a little high.
Tony

What kind of grease do you put on them?