VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 Brake Reline

This may have been discussed before-does anyone have a preference what material works best when re-lining brake shoes on a '34 Master? The drums are steel and I desire the best braking action I can obtain with the lining material available today. Thanks!!

When I restored mine many years ago I used some NORS replacement linings and have been very satisfied with the results.For normal stops they feel equal to a Huck hydralic brakes in my '39.For emergency stops more pedal pressure is needed as expected.If your in a hilly area and frequent braking is needed the thin steel drums do heat up fast.The lining that I used was molded.The original '34 lining was woven with a lot of metalic wire mixed in.Have over 20,000 miles on the lining and still going strong.Only adjusted brakes one time since relining and have never had a problem with pulling.......P.S.-If I remember correctly you needed a metering rod gauge-I'm still on the look out for mine

Yes, the woven brass and fabric is definitely the only way to go for mechanical brakes, and it is original equipment too! You can get it at your local clutch and brake supply house. The lining comes on a roll and they sell it by the foot. They can also rivet the linings to your brake shoes as well. This same material is still used today for friction applications on heavy equipment and machinery. I believe that the correct thickness is 3/16" if I remember right.

JYD do you mean like the brake band on your Tulsa winch? or the bulldozer? wish I has a bulldozer....maybe just a small one like a D-7. My old road boss had a Allis Chambers HD 21 it was too big to haul on my single axle Chevy.

Try to find NOS linings, easy to find. Look for pre-drilled with recess for rivet head. I got my '34 Master vehicle set riveted for $28, labor and rivets. This might be of interest to you.....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2407508265&category=33567

Hey Macky Wacky! Yes, like the brake band on my Tulsa winch or on my bulldozer. The new woven friction material that is available actually works a little better than the new old stock brake linings.

If you lived somewhat closer I have access to the drill bits to drill the recess for rivets as well as the fooot press to clamp it all together

Yes, I know many lining sets are available,just trying to find out if the woven or moulded was the correct type. The repair manual dated March 15, 1934 calls for "Special Moulded" and interestingly enough states that they used two types-one used at all plants except Buffalo, Tarrytown, and Bloomfield, and another type at the the three listed. These three plants used linings "black in color and is interchangable with either top or bottom shoes. This is the same lining used on 1/2-ton trucks at all plants". It goes on to say not to mix these different types and the cars made other plants used a dark grey color lining on the top and a light grey color on the bottom. Perhaps the "Special Moulded" had a copper or brass content in the lining? I am sure the asbestos also added helped tremendously!

Rereading all of my '34-'35 info. confirms that moulded was used in those years.I had woven in my head because of a picture in a '34 ad.Chevrolet had several brake lining suppliers over the years.I'm sure that each one had a slightly different material.Even in the hydralic brake years the linings differed.I think using a good quality old moulded asbestos lining will produce the best results.

Remember... it's one thing if your car does not start...but it's another thing if it does not stop!