Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#200558 03/12/11 12:13 PM
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 573
Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 573
Pulled the steering gear from my '32 LP. I have tried several time to eliminate the backlash between the worm and the sector by following the procedure in the repair manual the past two seasons.

I'd get it fairly tight (minimal backlash) only to find the slop would return after a short drive. The heavy leak from the steering gear housing flange suggested that the bushings were worn beyond a serviceable limit. When I pulled the box apart, I found the bottom of the outer bearing near completely gone (looked more corroded than worn actually).

I have ordered new thrust bearings and bushings. I can't find a replacement for the flat round gasket that fits between the gear housing and the housing flange.

(I'll post some pics of the sector gear and shaft shortly.)


32confederation (Canadian, eh!)
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ChatMaster - 15,000
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ChatMaster - 15,000
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Get a sheet of gasket material from a local parts house and make your own. A sharp knife and scissors can get the job done. Another way is to use a ball peen hammer. Put the gasket material on the housing and tap the edges of the holes to "cut" a new gasket.


How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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I may tackle the same job later this year. My flange is still riveted to the frame. Will I have to cut the rivets and rebolt? How big a job is removing the steering column? (Five window coupe-no room) Take out the pedals?

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The pedals are easy to remove and you don't have to knock out any rivets. Unbolt the top half of the part that's riveted to the frame. You might need a puller to remove the steering arm.


If you have old Chevrolets, other old Chevrolets will find out where you live.
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Oil Can Mechanic
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I will take your suggestion and procedure Chipper and make a new gasket.

I didn't need to remove any rivets to remove the steering box; just loosened two cap screws to release the steering gear housing (the repair manual didn't say anything about in Chapter VII).

Is there a serviceable limit to the wear on the teeth of the sector?

The sector gear photos are shown in the links. The shiny areas on the teeth show green reflection from the vinyl table cover:

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a208/32confederation/DSCN7429.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a208/32confederation/DSCN7428.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a208/32confederation/DSCN7426.jpg

Can I assume that the line marking on the end of the sector shaft is there to show me the "high point" or straight ahead position?

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a208/32confederation/DSCN7433.jpg




32confederation (Canadian, eh!)
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Most of the wear on the worm gear is in the center position. If you have to adjust the two case halves for too much wear in the center position, it will be too tight at the ends.

The mark on the end of the sector shaft should line up with the "L" (for left hand drive) mark on the steering arm.


If you have old Chevrolets, other old Chevrolets will find out where you live.
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Is the "L" marking on the pitman steering arm on the side typically covered by the lock washer?

Either the gouge left by the lock washer has obscured the marking or I'll need to remove some paint from the arm to find the mark.



32confederation (Canadian, eh!)

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