VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 Fires Up Runs Strong Sudden Death

Not the plugs, not the wires, not the coil.
Pulled the Dist cap and no spark at the points(new points).
Checked points for gap, check for power to the points, got a spark. Filed the points, now plenty of spark at the points. New rotor button and cap.

Is there something inside the distributor, that once sufficient vaccum is built, might mess with the advance and kill the ignition system?

Replace the distributor and eliminate that part of the equation?

BTW there is fuel to the carb. It does not sputter out or feel like it is choking out. It simply dies like someone ripped the battery cable off. Kicking the gas pedal and multiple obsenities do not help either.

If i understand you correctly, you had no spark at the points until you regapped them? You then filed them? Why did you file new points? Did you then have spark at the points and it ran well until?? Why are you sure it Is not your coil or coil wire?
Richard

I had spark before it ran and died. Then trying to chase the issue found no spark at the points(I know this does not make sense, lol). I tested for power and when I hit the electrode on something near the points it grounded and voila spark. So just to be on the safe side I lightly filed the points checked the gap and now they spark when it turns over.

I am thinking out of the box that something that cause it to die has now reset, unbuggered, degremlined, etc. Put the cap back on it fires up runs about a minute or so then dies.

Then on to the coil changed it because I had a new one there, picked it up with the new wires and plugs today, just in case. Fires up runs strong and smooth just as before, suddenly dies just like before only this time I kept my foot on the gas a bit and ran it at a higher RPM than idle.

Could you have a fuel problem?

You should check the wire that goes to the points inside the distributor.Some times that wire lays and rubs on the bottom of the distributor and wears the insulation off the wire,on the bottom only, just slightly so its hard to see. When the engine starts up the shaking of the engine causes it to contact the floor plate and short. GOOD LUCK....ED

I have not ruled it out, but it seems to have plenty of fuel in the carb and good flow to it. When it dies it does not sputter or seem starved for fuel bogged down etc. It is as if I turn the key off.

However fuel does leak around the base of the carb and shaft that connects to the linkage. Carter W-1. I think the tag said 596S. The arm that connects to linkage has the flat arm not like the W-1 574 on the '47 Fire Truck I am woking on.

Thanks Ed I have not pulled that out yet. I plan on it though. Someone else installed the points and condensor that are in place now, they are new.

When It dies have you immediately checked to see if you have fire at the points. If not,you could have a wire or heat issue, ie: condenser or coil breaking down with heat. If you have spark at the points then I would look In the direction of a fuel delivery problem. It is just going to take time and be a process of elimination. Good searching, you will find the culprit!
Richard

When you didn't have spark at the points, did you have 6 volts to the point arm? If not it could be the ignition switch (yes if contacts are corroded or dirty they can work until they heat up), coil, wire (any of them from the battery to the coil). All have been the cause in the past.

If you have 6 volts to the arm do you get stronger spark when you short across the points than when they are opened and closed? What if you short to the distributor body? Any stronger? Maybe ground of the stationary point. After all those are eliminated as the possible cause then the coil, condenser, distributor cap, rotor, spark plug wires are places to check.

Since some electrical problems go away (for what ever reason) you have to catch it when it is broken. Sometimes that can be a real test and frustration.

I went through something very similar top this just a little while back. I would have bet the farm on a spark problem. it was the fuel pump... I took it off rebuilt it, new parts and it did the same thing. Thought about putting a road flare in the car and collecting the insurance money.... I took the fuel pump off put a GOOD gage 0-15 psi (0-10 psi would be better) on it and it read 1.5 psi. Apparently that will not keep it running. it would fire then stop just like a spark issue. I took the pump back off loosened the diaphragm screws and pushed the arm the rides on the cam shaft ALL THE WAY IN, Holding all the way in I tightened the screws. put a gauge back on it and I had 3 psi. I could drive it to NY now. Maybe this is your problem or not but it only take a few minutes to check it. Good Luck

I have had a similar problem and know for a fact that the symptons you are describing can be caused by a fuel problem. On a six cylinder tour I had to clean my inline fuel filter 6 times in 40 miles and each time it stopped it acted exactly as you described-just as if I turned the key off-no sputtering or coughing. I also thought it was spark related, but after cleaning the tank the problem was solved. The time spent playing with the distributor and points allows the vacuum to dissapate in the fuel line and the crud that was being held against the filter settles out some and allows a little more gas to flow thru. Just enough to get a little further down the road and the problem repeats itself. Before you condemn the distributor you may want to try running gas out of an alternate temporary source.

How about a cracked distributor cap....

Your problem is the condensor; replace it and the engine will run perfectly.