VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 1928 Chevy Capitol Pulled out of Storage...

Hey guys,

I am new to the board here and have a few questions. I have a 1928 Chevrolet Capitol Truck with the 4 cylinder and I am trying to get it running.

The truck was stored for 15 years in a semi trailer converted to a shed so it was dry and protected from the elements, but not the mice! We have cleaned mouse nests from the exhaust, bell housing and starter motor! My question is, we have the engine spinning now using the starter, we have spark and we have fuel up to the carb to the point where it is overflowing the fuel bowl. We took the carb off and cleaned it and it was full of water. I was able to remove all of the jets except for the main jet that the fuel bowl bolt threads into and holds the fuel bowl on, the jet inside that wouldn't come out.

I can't get the engine to run and I cannot figure out why. I have spark at the plugs, but I don't seem to be getting fuel to the cylinders. The plugs smell like oil when I pull them out after cranking the engine for a while. I suspect that this carb needs a rebuild, but could this be causing it to not start? Also, it has the short reach plugs in it (old champions) I have read that a long reach plug like the autolite 3077 is better for starting? If the carb should need to be rebuilt, where is the best place to get a kit? Anything difficult about these Rakx-o carbs that I need to know? Is there anything else that I am not thinking of or any tips you guys can offer? Also, what position should the spark and fuel levers be in when starting?

Sorry for the long post, I guess quite a few questions built up as I have been working on this truck! I appreciate all help in advance! Now, let me have it guys, I need some suggestions!

Save your money on the carb kit. They only contain a few gaskets and a nearly useless needle and seat. To properly rebuild a '28 carburetor takes some special equipment and knowledge. If there is enough corrosion in the bottom of the carburetor then it is very difficult or impossible to get them to run correctly without very extensive machine work and part replacement. I have rebuilt over 100 1928 carburetors and learned a lot during that process.

Are you sure that you don't have mouse nests plugging the intake? Are all the valves seating? Do you have sufficient compression in each cylinder? Is the ignition timing right? All of those and others can prevent it from running even if you have spark and fuel.

Thanks for the info. We checked all that, cleaned the intake had a couple of valves not seating all the way. why would fuel be leaking over the top of the fuel bowl? Is there anyplace to get a replacement carb for these? And how much corrosion are we talking about and where at, on the jets, the body of the carb, etc?

Also, another question: I have a set of tires bought from Coker that I need to mount. I have heard people say that these are split rims and can explode when airing up. Is this true, or are they talking about the style of split rim that has a split parallel to the bead surface. I honestly don't see how these wheels would explode when aired up? Please clarify this for me, is it safe for me to do this or do I need to find a tire shop that has a cage to inflate them in?!

Thanks again, I appreciate the replies!

The split rims that are dangerous are those used on semi-modern trucks.
You always mount the rims and lock the rim before putting air into the tubes. Back in 1928 even 12 year old boys knew how to break down tires with detachable rims and balloon tires and fix a flat, using the proper tire tools. Most modern tire shops aren't much help.

If you aren't sure about mounting the tires try to find someone locally you can get to help.

Join VCCA and begin to enjoy your old Chevy.

See the reply to the first two questions in previous post in this forum.

It does not take too much corrosion if the bottom of the well (center of the casting that the bowl nut screw into) does not seal to the float bowl. There is a ledge on the bottom of the well that retains a gasket to seal the bottom.

I guess my question was more that if fuel is leaking over the top, is the needle and seat working properly. I tend to think that it is not. Is there supposed to be a gasket between the fuel bowl and the well (where the bolt threads into the carb)?

On to the tires...so these won't blow to pieces when I air them up? and are you saying to mount them back onto the spokes (inner rim) before airing them up?

What about long reach spark plugs? should I spend the money or will it make a difference?

Thanks guys, again, sorry for all the questions!

There may be fiber washers on the screw holding the fuel inlet cap on and a paper gasket at the large end of the fuel inlet. Just cut that one from an old paper grocery sack or notebook paper with an exacto knife if you have one. Fiber washers can still be bought at good hardware or auto parts stores. One thing not to do when spreading the rim is pulling it too far in, it will bend it and is a nightmare to get back straight, just pull it in a few inches just enough to get the old tire worked off with the tire spoons. Hook the pulling end of the rim spreader about 4-6 inches away from the split. You do have a rim spreader don't you? Be careful not to pinch the tubes when remounting and use tire talc which on the inside of the tire and rub some on the tube. You can get it at any NAPA but may have to order it. Make sure you have a new flap inside the rim. Make sure the rim lines back up and also check the latches before airing it back up and make sure they are holding. Then only put a couple pounds in and bounce the tire and wheel on the floor while vertical, I rotate the tire assembly and get all sides when doing this. It will help set the tube, then air up the rest of the way. Plugs; long reach will make it start easier and run much better but it should start on short reach plugs if everything else is in good shape which it doesn't sound like it is right now. Spark lever should be pushed up towards the windshield to retard. Move throttle lever so pedal on floor just moves down a 1/16 to 1/8 inch or so. One more thing, take a long peice of baling wire and bend a tiny loop in the end and push it down inside the oil fill pipe till it hits the bottom of the pan, move it side to side and then pull it back out. Note how much crud is on the wire. If the crud is more than a half inch pull the pan and clean it out so the oil pump/screen doesn't get clogged and starve the engine. Honestly I would just pull the pan anyway unless it was rebuilt when it was parked. Have only seen 1 old engine that didn't have crud in it (unless it was rebuilt right after parking) and it was a 28 chevy with only 14.7 miles. don't go by how clean the oil is on the dip stick as if it had non detergent oil in it, the crud will settle out and the oil will look clean after sitting a long time. The crud can't be cleaned out just by sloshing kerosene in the pan and draining, it will be packed in like stiff clay. If you are very carefull and don't hurry pulling the pan,Just loosen it slowly and tap the sides of the pan lightly several times with a wood block you might be able to save the gaskets with any luck.

The needle and seat can be working properly and still have fuel leak over the top. It is not common but can happen if you have an electric fuel pump that has too much pressure and overwhelms the needle/seat. Or the fuel bowl gets pressurized. Or fuel leaks past the seat gasket or the float sinks because it has gas inside or the float is set too high.

Yes there is a gasket on the outside of the bowl where "the bolt threads into the carb" and also one inside.

All you need to do is mount the tires on the outside rim and lock the rim with a cotter pin or nail or ? Then you can air up the tire. Baby powder works just as well as tire talc and is much easier to find.

The long reach plugs will run better but short reach plugs will work to get it started.

What happens when you crank over the engine and simultaneously squirt a little carburetor cleaner or starting fluid into the carburetor? Does it fire? Have the gas shut off to the carburetor if it is overflowing when trying it or you will have too rich a mixture for it to fire. You should be able to keep the engine running with short squirts from a carb cleaner aerosol can.

I am confused about this one. What do you mean lock them? Maybe I need to look a little closer, but I didn't see a way to lock them?

Also, I didn't think carb cleaner would burn? What brand does this work with? Is starting fluid bad for these engines? I know I typically don't like to use it on engines. Thanks for all the information, it is VERY helpful (and hard to find about these).

One more thing, Chipper, you said that special tools and know how are required to rebuild these carbs, what does that include? I don't even know where to begin to find someone to rebuild this carb around here!

Some of the split rims have a tab thet goes over a loop and you put a cotter key in the look to lock the rim, others have a tab that rotates on a rivit and covers the tab to lock the rim.
Rotating tab types:

another type...


The type with the tab and loop with a cotter key lock:







The carb cleaner I use (B-12 Chemtool in aerosol can) is very flammable and contains Acetone and Tolulene. It will clean the choke horn and also act as a starting fluid.

Be sure to use full face and eye protection in case it splashes back into your face! Never, I repeat, never spray it without eye protection. I got some on a pair of plastic safety glasses and it ate into the plastic, it is a super solvent.

I hope that after you see all this good info on VCCA Chatter II You will up and join VCCA, for the price of a really good Magazine and postage you can be a full fledged VCCA member and the fun will really start!!!

If you have a squirt type oil can drain it out and just put gas in it and squirt it in like that. Gumout type works good to run an engine on also but I just use the gas in a squirt can. Walmart brand carb cleaner is nothing but lacquer thinner in a can. Their brake cleaner is also lacquer thinner also, no different but the application on the lable. Starting fluid has a tendancey to wash the cyl walls of oil if too much is used which is usually the case. On the rims there should be someway to latch the two ends together or "lock them" as was said. Possible the rims may have been changed to what ever would "getter down the parade route" if the truck is an older "restoration". I have seen many butchered up and cobbled up trucks of that age both from so called restorations and from general farm use. I got lucky and have a nice original unrestored 28 Capitol LO in my barn with original everything but oil and tires. They also DID make the split rim or what is really called "Detachable Sidewall" or "lock ring type" rims back in the 20s, what a lot of people call "split rims".If there is a "lock ring at the point where the sidewall of the tire sits then is is the detachable type. Lock ring rims can have one or two rings depending on the maker or type rim.

Here is ingrediants on some popular carb cleaners:
CRC Carb Cleaner ingredients:
Acetone 20-30%
Toluene 35-45%
Methanol 25-35%
Carbon dioxide 5…10%

Berryman's B12 ingredients:
Toluene 40-50%
Methanol 20-30%
Acetone 20-30%
MEK 1-5%
2-Butoxyethanol 1-5%
Isopropanol 1-5%
Mixed Xylenes 1-5%

Supertech Carb Cleaner ingredients:
Acetone 47.2%
Toluene 44.7%

Gumout Jet Spray Carburetor and Choke Cleaner ingredients:
Acetone 60-100%
Propane 5-10%
MEK 1-5%
Distillates (petroleum) 1-5%

Prestone Carb and Choke Cleaner ingredients:
Acetone 60-100%
Solvent Naphtha Petroleum Distillates 10-30%

Just a note once I was having trouble starting a gas engined tractor and it had run out of gas and I didn't have any starting fluid to get it to run fast enough for the fuel pump to pickup gas and an old welder friend of mine used a apray can of WD-40 for starting fluid, it worked fine!

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Chlorinated Brake Cleaner that I have used is not the same as laquer thinner, it is :
pure dry-cleaning fluid- tetrachloroethylene, aka "perc" (perchloroethylene)

Non-Chlorinated Brake cleaner is usually:
Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK)
any of these solvents can be very harmful to humans, specially those with sensitive lungs if you breathe the fumes.

I have done some research and several people say that unless this is for a restoration, that I would be better off putting something like a model a carb on this engine if I just want to get it running. I am very interested in this. Has anybody done this before? Have pictures of the linkages and fuel line connecttions?

This seems to be a more cost effective solution at this point.

Also, just an update for those of you following along at home: we got it to run for a few seconds on its own the other night misting it with carb cleaner, so I know it will run now!! This also leads me to beleive that I have a carb problem.

To use a Model A Ford carb on your 28 Chevrolet will require several mods, because the Ford carb is on the passanger side of the engine, and if you install it in normal position the throttle connection will be behind the carb. If you install it where the throttle is correct the air horn will be to the front as will the adjustable jet and choke rod will be toward the front. One more thing, the mounting flange for the Ford carb is 90 degrees off from the Chevrolet manifold.

My advice is "Bite the bullet!"

Send the carb to Chipper and let him evaluate it for a bebuild. I am sure that there is some more things to work on before the truck is ready for a test drive.

By the way, Chipper don't pay me to send folks to him with carb problems! I do it because of this mean streak that I have.

Well, dodged a bullet this morning. Took the seats to the upholsterer to be recovered on Monday, and woke up this morning to hear that the shop had caught FIRE last night!!! Fortunately the seats are fine...but still not recovered!

I think we have decided to rebuild the stock carb and give that a go. Does anyone have a spec sheet or rebuild instructions that they could scan and post, or email to me? I feel like I am missing some crucial part of the rebuilding of this carb and that is why it wont run.

Chipper, if you're reading this, how long would it take you to rebuild this carb and get it back to me (if you're even interested in doing so)?

Thanks again for the help everyone, this truck is very close to being on the road!

If you have a Chevrolet 1928 repair manual there are detailed carb instructions and drawings of the carb in it.
Chip really don't solisit busuness here on the site, I think that you should send him a PM or email.

Wow,
That is indeed fortunate.

It normally takes less than two weeks from the time you send it to get is back. Takes me 3-4 days from the time I get it in my hands to being able to sent it back. Once it gets to be VCCA tour time it may take a bit longer, 'cause I try to enjoy my old Chevys as much as possible.

Couldnt get my 28 started after 2 years idle, had spark and the timming was right so I tried everything I could think of with fuel including a carby rebuild. Still wouldnt start so I changed the ciol for a new one and it fired right up. I cant tell the difference between the spark at the plug between the two ciols but the engine could. Maybee worth a try?

One last issue that I am having with this truck is that the clutch pedal is stuck (won't budge when I try to step it down). What are some possible solutions to this without pulling the gearbox off of the engine. I don't want to do this if I don't have to. Again, any suggestions are appreciated.

Possible problems:

1) The clutch may be stuck to either the flywheel or clutch plate.

2) The clutch hub may be rusted to the input shaft to the transmission.

3) The pedal may be rusted to the stub that holds the clutch and brake pedal.



If you get the engine running, jack up the rear end, put car in gear, start motor, speed up the motor and then release throttle, repeat as necessary.

One thing no one has mentioned is compression. IF the Chev was stored for 15 years all the oil would have drained from the rings. I had a similar problem with my 28 convertible cabriolet that had been stored for 27 years and only 13 miles on the engine.
I squirted oil through the spark plugs holes and had to do it twice and leave for a couple of days to settle in before I had enough compression to start the engine.
Hope this helps
Chris

I suspect that the clutch pedal bushing is rusted to the shaft it rotates (or is supposed to rotate) on. First try PB Blaster or other good quality penetrating oil on the shaft/pedal side. If you remove the clip that holds the clutch and brake pedals in place you may be able to tap the pedal sideways a bit. You can also loosen the brass tapered hex "nut" and remove the open ended eye bolt. Once that is done then the pedal will not have anything keeping it from moving except the bushing to shaft interface. If it is still stubborn then apply a little heat and mild persuasion.

If the pedal will move (when disconnected) then check to see if the clutch arm will move at all. If it moves freely then you will need to remove the transmission/clutch housing from the engine to address the clutch plate and pressure plate.

How big of a job is it to remove the trans/bellhousing to address this? It seems easy, but I have no manual or anything to ensure that I am doing it correctly!

Good point. I suggest you purchase a copy of the Owner's Manual, Repair Manual, and the Chevrolet Service News for they year of your car and the packet from the year before and the year after. All of these items are available in reprint at a reasonable price.

In a nutshell you will need to drop the center brake rods, bust the "U" joint, remove the bell housing. From there you will decide by inspection.