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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10
Grease Monkey
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OP
Grease Monkey
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10 |
Hi All
I'm pretty new to this Just bough a 1928 Chevrolet Tourer, and I need some advise on how to remove the front wheels so I can check the breaks.
Any advise would be welcome
Shearer
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 455
Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 455 |
Hi Shearer and welcome to VCCA forums.I personally do not know about the 28 chevys,but I'm sure you will get your answer shortly,as this site is full of useful information!It would be to your full benefit to join the VCCA and receive additional benefits the club has to offer! Mike Hansen
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 11,162
ChatMaster - 10,000
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ChatMaster - 10,000
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 11,162 |
Do you have the wood spoke wheels or the metal disc wheels? I have the metal disc wheels and pull them off wheel, rim and tire just like a modern car by removeing the 6 lug nuts. You can then remove the cotter key and axle nut and pull the hub, brake drum off after adjusting the brake shoes to the retracted (loose)position, the adjustment is outside the brake drum where the brake rod goes verticle into the inside of the brake , I think turning the adjustment to the right, loosens the brake shoes, then pull the brake drum and hub and bearings off. A speed mechanic probably would leave the tire rim wheel and hub and drum all together and just remove the cotter key and axle nut, and pull it all off together. I would reccomend that you first buy a copy of the 1928 National Repair manual (Shop Manual) from one of our vendors (Filling Station, Gary Wallace) or other, or find one on eBay under Auto literature. If you plan to do any front brake work you will need the 1928 manuals, because before 1928 Chevrolet cars did not have front wheel brakes.
Life's a long winding trail, love Jesus and ride a good horse!
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10
Grease Monkey
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OP
Grease Monkey
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10 |
Thanks for your reply, I just need to learn to spell??
happy New Year
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10
Grease Monkey
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OP
Grease Monkey
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10 |
Thanks for your reply,
I went a bit nuts just before Christmas when I went looking for a vintage car, ended up with two 1928 Chevrolets.
The brakes need some work so I will start on the front and see what I can do. I will buy a repair manual as its a must.
One car has the solid wheel and the other has the wooden spoke. The wooden wheel has a big nut under an end cap, it looks as though when I undo the nut the wheel should pull forward.
Do I need to remove the bearings to pull off the brake drum?
regards
Shearer
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 802
ChatMaster - 750
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ChatMaster - 750
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 802 |
When I did mine last summer, I just took the hub cap off , pulled the cotter pin and took the nut off. Then just slid the wheel and hub off in one piece,inspected,greased and put back together. no problems. Wood wheel and disc come off the same way like that.
Last edited by Bob_Kerr; 12/28/10 09:33 PM.
28 Chevy LO Capitol 1 ton, 28 National 2 dr coach, 71 Chevy Custom Camper 3/4 ton. Also 23 Oldsmobile Economy truck and a 24 Olds sport touring.
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 597
Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 597 |
Ditto here. I pulled it off in one whole piece.Never removed the wheel from the hub.
It's not how fast you can go, but how good you look at 20 MPH.
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10
Grease Monkey
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OP
Grease Monkey
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10 |
Thanks to all for your replys today, I'm inspected the brakes on my 1928 chev, looks like there is about 1/4 inch (3mm) of lining left on the caliper? is this about the right amount?
Tried to adjust and found that the right hand needed little adjustment but the left needed double. Cheached out the operation and the left hand caliper extends quite a lot befor the brake operates. The right hand caliper onloy moves about 1/2 inch befor wheel stops spinning.
All the linkages to the front wheels measure out the same. Any ideas why on brake needs more adjustment than the other.
drop me a line please
re4gards to all
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,284
ChatMaster - 1,000
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ChatMaster - 1,000
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,284 |
Hi Shearer,
Another 28 from Down Under, welcome to a fellow country man.
Good Luck
Ray
Some say "Street is neat". I prefer "1928 is great" I have documented my 45 years with a 1928 Chev Tourer, from 1973 to 2018, and regulary add other items that I hope are of interest to others. Your comments are most welcome.The story of the Red Chev can be viewed at http://my28chev.blogspot.com/
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 802
ChatMaster - 750
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ChatMaster - 750
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 802 |
As long as the rivets aren't wearing on the drum, it will be ok for a while. These linings aren't real thick to start with. When I adjusted mine, I paid more attention to the brakes just barely clearing the drum. Just make sure the roller pins and other linkages are not worn out. The equalizer/ adjustment assembly originally was contained in rubber which usually went bad after a few years. Then some companys started making it out of pot metal, of course those are going bad also by now. Gary Wallace has new ones made from aluminum. Here is his site. 20schevyparts.com
28 Chevy LO Capitol 1 ton, 28 National 2 dr coach, 71 Chevy Custom Camper 3/4 ton. Also 23 Oldsmobile Economy truck and a 24 Olds sport touring.
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10
Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10 |
Thanks mate working my way through the basics at the moment brakes water pump replacement, bits of electrical but alls good. Cheer.
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10
Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10 |
Thanks for your e-mail, still feeling my way around the Chevy and the web site.
Best regards
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 809
ChatMaster - 750
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ChatMaster - 750
Joined: Jan 2002
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Shearer Good to see to another Aussie 28 owner, I've had Chev's for 40 years. Send me pm and I'll give you my contact details, I live in outer Sydney NSW Chris
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