VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 engine rebuild 2

When rebuilding a 1932 194CU engine is it possible to change to a full preasure oiling system? Besides the pump (from what engine?) is there anything else that needs to be changed or modified?

Yes, there's a updated aftermarket version that provides more pressure than the original pump type. You have to buy a different pickup and screen that goes with it. These are available at the Filling Station (www.fillingstation.com). I put it in my '32 rebuild, and it works great - lots of p.s.i. even during idle.

To convert to full pressure (rod bearings and cam) is to drill the crank and plug the outside of each drill hole. Then provide some direct oiling to the cam and cam gear. Since there is no front seal the amount of oil to the timing cover area needs to be carefully checked. A top quality automotive machine shop should be able to do the work.

I do not intend to offend anyone just provide a little education. If anyone is offended I appologize in advance. Since there are so many amateur engineers that have personal experience or more likely relate something that they learned from someone else that "supports" all those theories I feel that I need to provide some reality to the situation.

Guess my question is why, since the reason for the higher oil pressure in more modern engines is primarily for engine cooling and not required to properly lubricate the engine bearings? I understand that the vast majority of people assume the pressure is needed to properly lubricate the engine but it simply is not the case. It is the high rpms that generate the heat (primarily from hydraulic friction) that thins the oil. And then there are the much higher internal engine temperatures (in the cylinders, crankcase and adjacent areas) for modern engines that can more effectively controlled by oil than engine coolant or air past the outside surfaces.

Then there is the hp required to generate the higher pressure. It comes from the power available to drive the wheels. Same for the higher pressure in the cooling system by restrictions in the upper radiator hose or thermostat. Alternators or higher output generators also have more drag on the engine power.

Full pressure oiling (to the rods) is rather difficult with a 3 main bearing 6 cyl. engine.On a 4 main engine the main can "oil" the rod journal next to the adjoining main.The 3 main engine has a rod journal (#2 and #5) with a rod on either side.The shaft would require drilling from one rod bearing to the next for those cylinders,making the oil supply rather iffy for #2 and #5.
A higher capacity , higher pressure pump would be necessary for full pressure, such as used in the 1953 and up full pressure Chevrolet engines.
Nothing needs to be changed for the camshaft oiling as its already full pressure lubricated (from the main bearings) in 1932.
The 1932 oiling system is not the engines weak point, its the small rod and main journals, long stroke and long connecting rods.The engine will run forever at 50-55 MPH (if bearings are good)...which is about 2500-2700 RPM.If faster speeds are required I would conside changing the ring gear and pinion to a 3.50 ratio.

Amen Chipper. properly assembled and maintained the babbitt system will give many many miles of service.

some early engines (the Fix Or Repair Daily brand comes to mind) didn't have oil pumps, relied soley on splash and gravity.

How many miles can be expected from a properly rebuilt engine that is correctly maintained?

The easy answer is 20,000 - 50,000 miles without major repair or adjustment. That is what the original owners got and with less dusty roads, modern lubricants and knowledge it should be even longer today. The more the vehicle is driven at moderate speeds the longer it will be between adjusting the valves, adjusting the brakes, cleaning the carb, etc. The bearings should definately last 20k before any tightening. Same for the valves. The beauty is the those can easily be done at home and taking to the dealer (or mechanic) is not necessary.