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Good evening all,
I pulled the Carter carb of the 52 Styleline (56' 235) this evening. I have a chem dip and want to clean it up, but I hope to put it back together w/o a kit or new gaskets (at this point). Just wanting to try and clean the carb up some and start the motor before I decide the best route to proceed. Would I be better off not disassemling the carb and just hitting it with carb cleaner as best I can?
TIA
Chris
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Is the Carter a YF?
It would need to be disassembled to do any good. Gaskets probably will tear or split. If they don't they could be reused for trial.
If its a W-i don't even bother as there are a lot of little gaskets around various plugs and jets.
Gene Schneider
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Thanks Chevgene,
I just got it on the bench last night. I will try and clean it up this evening and see if I can tell you what it is. I did see a triangular tag on the top of it, but didn't take time to clean it off yet.
Chris
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Hey all,
Carburator is a YF, stamped and tagged 2010S. I will try and take it apart carefully and get it cleaned up.
Chris
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I would start by removing the bowl lid. If there is not too much crud then put it back together and try it. Most likely the accelerator pump leather is dry and cracked but that will not prevent the engine from running, just cause hesitation on acceleration.
If you find a bunch of dry, dusty, oily, gummy stuff then a through disassembly and cleaning is warranted.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Hello all, I provided the wrong number earlier, it is stamped 2101S, which indicates a 42-62 replacement for the Rochester carb (based on a carbareter site I visited). I found the bowl to be crusted in the bottom, though not gummy, etc. Having a can of chem dip, I decided to go ahead and clean it up. Still need to pull the throttle body and run a fishing line through the smallest orfices before final assembly. I am sure the carb had been gone through before as the choke diaphram isn't leather. The only gasket to fight was the gasket between the throttle body and intake manifold, but even it just got a little thinner in spots, didn't come apart on me. Here are some pics. Online manual for the 49 YF provided minimal help, this carb includes an automatic choke. ![[Linked Image from i116.photobucket.com]](http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o39/treestine/IM000280.jpg) ![[Linked Image from i116.photobucket.com]](http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o39/treestine/IM000282.jpg) ![[Linked Image from i116.photobucket.com]](http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o39/treestine/IM000281.jpg) All comments welcome. Chris
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The factory did not use a gaskket between the throttle body and manifold. As long as the insulator block (between manifold and carb.) has the 4 notches a gasket isn't necessary. There are passages in the bowl for the accelerator circuit that can become plugged up.
Gene Schneider
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Good Evening All, Here are some photos of the carb going back together. I think it went back together right, but if someone could comfirm that would be great. ![[Linked Image from i116.photobucket.com]](http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o39/treestine/IM000283.jpg) ![[Linked Image from i116.photobucket.com]](http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o39/treestine/IM000286.jpg) ![[Linked Image from i116.photobucket.com]](http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o39/treestine/IM000289.jpg) It appears the insulator block has only two notches (and it broke as I was removing it, quite brittle). The gasket has four notches, but still doesn't look quite right. There are three holes on the bottom of the carb. One is recessed on the side (approx. 9 o'clock in photo) and does not require a notch. Then there is a second hole at approx. 11 o'clock and a third at approx. 2 o'clock. The insulator block would provide an opening for 2 o'clock, but cover 11 o'clock. The gasket is just the opposite and would provide an opening for 11 o'clock, but block 2 o'clock. ![[Linked Image from i116.photobucket.com]](http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o39/treestine/IM000287.jpg) ![[Linked Image from i116.photobucket.com]](http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o39/treestine/IM000288.jpg) Where might I purchase a new insulator block that would be correct for this carb? All comments welcome.  TIA, Chris
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I got one from the Filling Station.
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Hey all, After some continued searching I have assertained that the 2101 is the appropriate carb for the 235. No real luck finding an insulator block any different (2 notches). Most are only $10 + shipping. It would appear the rebuild kit I need is a 5135C which many include a gasket similar to the one I show. However, this link shows a TOMCO kit (5135C) available on fleabay that has a gasket that would allow openings to all three ports. Comments welcome. fleabay link Chris
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No Cris, That Carter Carb in the pictures is not the proper carb for your 1952, and the carb in the pictures is an aftermarket Carter . The 1952 Chevrolet came with a Rochester Model B carb, if manual transmission, and a Rochester model BC if it was a powerglide.
Life's a long winding trail, love Jesus and ride a good horse!
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Mr. Mack,
Thank you for your help. The carburetor in question is a replacement carb., Carter YF 2101S, which appears to be the appropriate replacement for the stock Rochester carb. I am working on a 1956 235 CI motor installed in a 52' Styleline. I looked at the Filling Station website and the insulator plates they showed had only two notches, but I will give them a call and see if they have a 4 notch insulator plate. The Carter's appear to be reliable replacement carbs based on a quick internet search of varying sites. I'm just trying to build a daily driver with/for my son.
Chris
PS - Just spoke with Swanny at the Filling Station and they currently carry two insulator blocks, both with only two notches. The carb specialist (Jerry) is out today, but I am going to check back with him and see if he can help me.
Last edited by NWMO_52_Chevy; 11/15/10 11:24 AM.
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If you have a Carter YF it is a carburetor never supplied by Chevrolet. It will require a different thick notched gasket under the base. The notches in the insulator block are for Rochester carbs. only.
Gene Schneider
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Upon further investigation, And a couple of phone calls, it appears the 2101S was built for the 53-54 235's. See [color:#CC0000]Carburetor Shop[/color] application info. (reportedly straight from original Carter manuals). Being built as a replacement carb would lead me to believe it should work on the "original" 2 notch insulator block, plugging the hole at 11 o'clock. I'm going to look a little closer and try to see where the ports lead, but am leaning towards a two-notch insulator plate w/ no gasket. The Carburetor Shop indicated a Carter 3211 was built as a replacement starting in 55'. I'm not certain, but it sounds like the main difference was a low profile carb to allow for the changing body style. Chris
Last edited by NWMO_52_Chevy; 11/15/10 02:58 PM.
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Hey all,
After checking the carb and ports in question, it appears the two ports (11 o'clock and 2 o'clock) are connected. When blowing air through them I would get air out of the adjacent port as well as a small hole just above the lower butterfly valve. I will try the two notch insulator and see how it goes.
Chris
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Hey all, After some continued searching I have assertained that the 2101 is the appropriate carb for the 235. No real luck finding an insulator block any different (2 notches). Most are only $10 + shipping. It would appear the rebuild kit I need is a 5135C which many include a gasket similar to the one I show. However, this link shows a TOMCO kit (5135C) available on fleabay that has a gasket that would allow openings to all three ports. Comments welcome. fleabay link Chris Go to NAPA they probably have it on the shelf, or can have it next day.
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Thanks Glyn,
I've got a NAPA on the way home and go to church with the fella behind the counter. I'll give him a holler.
Chris
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