VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 Turn Signal - Lesson Learned + Notice

After much frustration I have my Turn Signals installed and working great - 1940 2 Dr Town Sedan. Problem was on Item #985720 from Chev's of the 40's, the included wiring diagram has wire #3 and #4 reversed. I have notified Chev's of the 40's and they inturn are going to notify the supplier (Pacific). Hope this information may help someone else to avoid the frustration I had....

Wes Marquis

Here are what I consider a standard wireing color code for turn signals using a Signal Stat switch:

Signal lights without using the stop lights as turn signals and not having a dash pilot lamp
There are five wires on the Signal-Stat Model 700:

…Green - left front
…Red - right front
…White - left rear
…Black - right rear
…Yellow - flasher
It will use a two terminal flasher. I recommend fusing the system. Pick up an in-line fuse holder and a 5-amp fuse when you buy your flasher

Signal lights using the stop lights as turn signals
There are seven wires on the Signal-Stat Model 900:

…Green - left front
…Red - right front
…Gray - left rear
…Black - right rear
…Gray / Black - stop light switch
…Yellow - flasher (load)
…Blue - flasher (pilot)

It will use a three terminal flasher and, again, I recommend fusing it.


I found this on my old 57 Chevrolet truck:
It didn't have emergency flashers. The front signal lights were mounted on top of the front fenders, seperate from the park lights.

…White - brake light switch
…Pink - left brake light
…Black - right brake light
…Yellow - flasher
…Light blue - left front signal light
…Dark blue - right front signal light

Anyone know the correct wiring for a Auto Lamp Chicago 9000 turn signal switch? the one I have was marked by someone as follows:

- Yellow - Left Front
- Green - Right Front
- Orange - Left Rear
- Brown - Right Rear
- Red - Stop Light Switch
- Gray - Flasher
- Black - Flasher

Also, how can I tell which connections in the switch and which on the flasher are the Load and the Pilot?

RalphL,

Here is a link to someone else's info on the Chicago 9000:

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?p=205033

Maybe this will help, but the color coding listed in this link is not the same as marked on yours. Just adding to the confusion.

Dan

Wow - you're right! I guess I'll open it up and see if there are any clues. Thanks!

Just found this link on an earlier chatroom posting:

http://automotive-hardware.com/univ...;osCsid=91815747a09fc50f71d6c3d5e3a4d6b5

My wiring colors match this exactly so I feel a bit more confident now. Another question - Do I need to ground the switch housing? I plan to use a rubber pad to keep the clamp from scratching my steering column.

Not sure what turn signal unit is on my 48, but, the unit had to be grounded through its steering column clamp to get it and the brake lights to work. One smart thing whomever originally installed it did - the hot lead on mine is hooked to the heater switch on my car - if the key is off, the turn signals don't work. Good for an old fart like me who keeps forgetting that the thing doesn't auto cancel.

Regards:
Oldengineer
48 Fleetmaster town sedan

Even if the housing does need grounding you can do that with a separate ground wire from the switch housing. Just incorporate it into the wire bundle from the switch that runs under the dash.

The experiance that I had with my '39 is the pilot light on the switch housing did not work when it was not grounded to the column. The exterior lights did work.

Tiny & Gene, Thanks for the feedback. All my exterior lights are grounded well. As Tiny mentioned, I figured I should run a separate ground wire the dash for the switch unit. Although I have the front fender-mounted accessory parking lamps (not installed yet), I'm going to use front fog lamps instead as Gene mentioned in an earlier separate discussion.

It's getting old using hand signals when it seems to rain during many of the local region's tours! Cheers!

I'm glad it worked for you Ralph.