|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 93
Shade Tree Mechanic
|
OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 93 |
On my first long trip out in my '30 PU (45 min.) the engine bucked a few times and then quit completely. The engine was hot but not overheated. The temp guage showed about 160. After it sat for several hours, it started and ran normally. This gave all indications of a bad coil. As I was replacing the coil I noticed the primary wiring was wrong. The negative terminal was wired to the plus lead from the ignition switch and the plus terminal was wired to the points. The engine ran this way but could the miswiring cause the failure I had? Is there some internal wiring in the coil that needs to have the correct polarity?
ArtM
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 558
Oil Can Mechanic
|
|
Oil Can Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 558 |
ArtM, Here are two links to some info on this polarity question: http://www.mossmotors.com/forum/forums/thread/11030.aspxhttp://mgaguru.com/mgtech/ignition/ig104.htmI don't think reversing polarity on the coil would cause your car to die after a while. According to these two articles, is sounds like, at worst, the spark at the plugs would not be as "hot" as it should be. Could still be a bad coil though, but not likely caused by reversed polarity. Maybe a vapor lock? Dan
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 93
Shade Tree Mechanic
|
|
OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 93 |
Dan
Thanks for the references. They explained exactly what I needed to know. I discounted fuel as a problem because of the way the engine almost instantly stopped and instantly started when it cooled off. The coil seemed the most logical part to give this symptom, so I replaced the coil this morning. Now all I have to do is get up enough nerve to take another long drive to check it out.
ArtM
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64
ChatMaster - 15,000
|
|
ChatMaster - 15,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64 |
If coil many times you can pour cold water on it and it will work until it heats up again. Condenser is more often a problem than coil. Don't forget the ignition switch as it also can instantly disconnect. It is always a good idea to carry a jumper wire with clips on each end to bypass a switch.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 93
Shade Tree Mechanic
|
|
OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 93 |
Chipper,
Thanks for the reply.
Cold water is very hard to find in the Arizona desert.(Grin).
I guess I could use warm water.
I have replaced the coil and now have a set of points and a new condenser in my tool kit. The electrolock - distributor system was rebuilt by a well respacted tech advisor here, so I would like to think they are not the problem.They have less than 100 miles on them. The jumper wire would only work if the BATT to Coil Gauge contact in the electrolock failed. In spite of all this, I now carry a point set, condnser and a jumper wire .... oh and a bottle of warm water with me.
ArtM
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64
ChatMaster - 15,000
|
|
ChatMaster - 15,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64 |
As long as the warm water will cool the coil then it will work. Since swamp coolers work in the desert the warm water should also.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
