VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND NEWER 1949-1954 52 Styleline repower

Good Evening all,

I just picked up this 1952 Styleline and am trying to find a good discussion board for help. My first attempt (another discussion board) was good for a week or so and then responses just stopped on the following post. Maybe I wasn't patient enough.

I'm just looking for a project that my 10 year old son and I can work on and end up with a dependable driver when he turns 16. I feel better about the mechanical work, the body and paint will be a new experience, but I have a couple of friends that have offered to help.

What I have (as I understand it): 1952 Styleline that was fitted with a 49'-51' front cross memeber to accept a 56' 235 motor. The 235 appears to be bolted to the original three speed tranny and the torque tube is still used. The water pump was shortened to accomodate the longer motor.

I understand I need to stabilize the driveline to minimize movement due to torque and there are two common options:

#1 - Use the bell housing mounts to tie the housing to the frame
OR
#2 - Change the front motor plate to one off an earlier 216 which will mount on the cross member the same, but also include side motor mounts to the cross member to reisist torque.

Any pictures and/or comments of the needed mounts and benefits thereof are appreciated.

Was the entire front end likely swapped? or can the 49'-51' crossmember be added to a 52' front end? I've read quite a few positive comments on these old front ends working and driving fine.

I cracked the oil plug tonight and while there may have been a trace of milky oil (water), there wasn't much.

I would like to change the oil in the motor, set up a temp fuel supply, install new plugs and try to start the motor. Is it manditory to throw the radiator and fan back in or can the motor withstand short runs (2-3 minutes) without cooling. The car currently has Champion J-8 plugs, what do most use today? I assume copper core plug wires from TSC or similar are sufficient?

I believe the starter will be fine with 12 volts, but I will likely need an inline resistor for the coil to protect the points.




TIA

Chris

I am not familiar with the different crossmembers/engine mounting combinations so will let others comment on them.

With any engine that has not been started for an extended time it is best to drain fluids, clean and inspect for any problems. Repair or replace anything that does not look right. If you don't have a radio then the solid core wires are the best. It is not necessary to use new plugs.

Before trying to start add fresh oil (I use 10W-30). The lower viscosity oil will lubricate better on initial startup. I also believe it is critical to get oil flowing before you try to start the engine. Removing the distributor and turning the oil pump (with drill and shaft with similar end to bottom of distributor shaft) until oil is seen flowing from rocker shaft ends and positive oil pressure on the gauge. If you mark the distributor position when you remove it and also note the position of the shaft on the oil pump when removed and return them to the same position, retiming is not necessary. Lubricate starter, distributor, generator if installed. Try to find gasoline without any ethanol added (ethanol can instantly destroy fuel pump diaphragm). A temporary tank is good but make sure it does not create a fire hazard. Turn over the engine and check to see if all the rockers and valves are free (I prefer to tap on each valve with a brass drift and hammer to verify they are bouncy). Before actually starting make sure that the engine turns over at a moderate speed. Leaving the ignition switch off while cranking will do it for a '52. Check the distributor by opening and closing the points to see if you have a spark at the points and center wire of the coil when held ~1/2" from a ground. Once you are sure you have operating ignition you are ready to start the engine.

After all is serviced and ready add a little gas to the carburetor (cleaned out with quality cleaner) and then crank it over with the ignition on. If the engine does not fire after a few rotations try briefly choking. Don't leave the choke on for an extended period while cranking as you don't want to flood it. The engine should run if you have spark at the plugs and fuel to the cylinders. You can run the engine a minute or so without the radiator. It is better to have the cooling passages filled with water to keep temperatures down.

Of course make sure that the vehicle is out of gear and safely blocked from movement. Good luck it is a great father, son project.

Thanks Chipper,

The motor spins by hand and I have observed the valves as I rotate the motor, all appear to be working properly. I did pull the plugs and get a little ATF on top of each cylinder, hopefully help the rings free up some. I will drain the old oil and use 10-30W. I've not seen the shaft under the distributor, so I don't know how easy running the oil pump with a drill will be, but will figure something out. If I was really lucky, it would use the same shaft as a 350, I have one of those from a past project that I used to lubricate a rebuild prior to starting.

I will inspect the distributor components and confirm spark. I was going to just run a wire from the battery to the coil when I wanted to start it and jumper staight to the starter. I don't know what shape the ignition switch/wiring is in and don't have a key currently, though a screw driver may do the trick. Will the ignition actually start the car or will I energize with the key and use a start button like my older Ford tractor? If is uses a start button, where should I find that (assuming it hasn't been changed)?

Thanks again,

Chris

PS - I assume the tube on top of the head (that has been pinched) use to help distribute oil. What am I needing to repair?

A starter button is on the dash left of the steering column. Much like your tractor. You can also use a remote starter switch attached directly to the solenoid. A hot line directly from the positive battery post to the + side of the coil will work. Recommend a clip or slip joint or other means to quickly disconnect the hotwire.

The return pipe on the valve shaft is crimped to increase oil flow to the ends of the shafts due to wear on the shafts and bushings. It will need to be repaired in the future.

Thanks Chipper

Hey all,

They are calling this a rear motor mount. Is this the part that restrains the bellhousing?

http://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail/7356/Chevrolet_MOTOR_MOUNT_REAR_USES_.html

TIA

Chris

The '49 and '50 have a formed metal "ear" that bolts to the bell housing, and this mount bolts to that and to the frame.

Thanks Jim,

The drawing in this link shows a bracket to the frame and a bracket to the engine (bellhousing ??). Is it easiest to find a donor for these brackets, as my 52 is without?

I believe finding an old front motor plate with the additional motor mounts may be easier, but the prospect of that change is less inviting.

TIA

Chris

The front cross member is the SAME for 1949-1954 Chevrolets.
The 1949-1951 had front motor mounts that sat under the engine front mounting plate and were bolted to the crossmember.
The 1952-54 had large frackets on the side of the engine.
Your 1952 crossmember will have the bolt holes necessary for use with the 1951 mountws. The front mounting plat may or may not have the mount holes but they could be drilled. The engines are all the same length but the newer style water pump wich is longer was used from 1955 and up.

Thanks Chevgene,

The bottom motor mounts are used with the new motor, but I may be interested in the additional mounts that resist torque. The passenger side of the motor appears to have a good spot to add a motor mount, but the driver side does not.





TIA

Chris

Hey All,

I recently got the motor(235 out of a 56' truck) started on the 52' Styleline. It does appear to have quite a bit of "rocking" to it and that is without any torque from the driveline. I was trying to find the best (and correct) way to support this engine. It appears to currently sit on two mounts under the front and the rear simply mounts to the transmission (no additional mounts). Any help is appreciated. As I've asked earlier in this old post, what counteracts the torque on these motors (in the way of mounts, etc.)?

Chris

You might try bolting up the two side mounts which were used in the 1951 models. I believe they were eliminated in 54, but they should bolt up ok.

dude51,

When you refer to side mounts are you refering to mounts from the tranny to the frame. There are two holes on either side of the transmission (just under the starter on the passenger side) that would hold a mount, then I just need to find/fab the bracket to land them on the frame?

TIA
Chris