VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 '33 Carter 1 Carburetor flooding

I started my car yesterday and it started fine. Then after it idle for awhile & reving the engine every once in awhile, engine started to run rough & gasoline started to come out of the top through the hole around the metering valve. Shut down imediately & cleaned up the mess. Could it be a problem with the float setting or should I be looking at something else? I removed the carb & since I had a rebuilding kit from FS I proceeded to take the carb apart. I blew out whatever valves I could get to, replaced the needle valve & seat. The float is solid with no leaks. For some reason it seems too much gas was flowinginto the carb causing it to over-fill. I believe I used to set the floats in these carbs using a 3/8 drill as the guide. Is this correct for this carb or is it too much or too little?? Or is there something else I should be looking at before I reinstall the carb?

As alway, this site has always helped me solve my problems. I love my old '31 & hope as long as I can, keep it running & enjoy it as long as I'm able.

There are 3 main causes of this
1 float sinking in the fuel there should be no fuel in the float though there may be some small pieces of solder rattling.

2 sticking needle clean any fuel gum or other substance off needle and seat

3 piece of rust from fuel line between needle and seat clean the fuel lines and tank

Tony

If the fuel pump is putting out too much pressure it could also cause flooding.

I will check that out tomorrow. I just had the tank cleaned & sealed but I figured that the screen in the fuel pump would catch any debri.I'm still concerned about the float setting as to why fuel sometimes flows out of the top.

Not completely. Some debri will still get through.

Is your needle and seat compatible with todays gas?If you have the old rubber seat it could be reacting with the gas.Float level should be 3/8" according to my book.Is the metering rod adjusted correctly?

Regarding the metering rod, how do you adjust it?

Well upon further checking found that the float had a hairline crack. Drained & repaired the float. As of right now the carb is not flowing over with fuel & seem to be running okay. I'm going to start looking to see if I can locate a replacement float or a backup carb - just to play it safe.Any idea's whom or where might one be able to find a float or a carb for a '33 master motor?

Look in the parts for sale category.A guy named Bruce2 has 33 parts for sale.I think he has a carb.

Thanks,

I'll give him a call. I've bought some items from him in the past.

Do you have an original '33 Chevy Carter carburetor with the large idle mixture adjustment screw up near the air horn or a later replacement? It may make a difference in the parts that you are looking for.

There is also a W1 listed on EBAYMOTORS for sale,$60.00 That sounds a little steep as it doesn't appear to be in real good condition,but if you're like me and you want it....you buy it.I just found another one on that site.They say it is a W1 from a 36 chevy.I'm not sure if it is the same as a 33.It is offered at no reserve with no bids as of this writing.Junkyard Dog could probably tell you if it's the same or if the internals are interchangable.

Hi Floridaboy
I think I have a NOS float in the box left for the Carter W-1 carbs. They sell for $40.00. I just checked this link http://old-carburetors.com/Chevy.htm and it shows that the float is the same from 32-49. I also have carb rebuilt kits available with a new style needle and seat without a tip on the needle. These are a flat tipped flouroelastomer needle with a seat machined inside the seat. This style needle prevents sticking like the rubber or viton tipped needles. Please go to our website www.marxparts.com and under fuel system for Chevy reproduction parts, you will find the kits and information. Regards Bob@marxparts

Bob,
I hate to burst your bubble but those "modern" flat needle & seats will stick! Also they are much more susceptible to leak do to trash in my opinion. Most needles don't stick the tapered part into the seat but the side of the needle to the side of the seat. I also found that the ball bearing type (sold as Grose Jet) will stick also. Spent a bunch of time getting one of those cleaned up so the ball didn't stick to the seat. It was several orders of magnitude tougher than the typical needle & seat.