VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 1931 chevy ignition switch

hi i am new here and i am in need of a ignition switch for a 1931 chevy. this car belongs to 2 very old ladies and it has been in there family every since it was purchased new...the switch is the only thing wrong with the car and hope someone can help me find a new one or tell me how to temporarily rig a toggle switch to work until i can find a new key switch.
thanks ken sams
scmuseum@bellsouth.net

The original ignition switch is called an "electrolock", and it is an armored cable that attached to the side of the distributor housing. The ignition lock is of the "pop out" type.

What seems to be wrong with your switch?

well i am not getting any spark to the dist. i was told that it happened once before and the swaich was bad...condenser is new and the coil is new, so i figure its probably the switch again.

The electrolock is repairable. You don't need another switch.

JYD is correct if the switch pops out when the key is turned clockwise and reseats when pushed in and the key turned counterclockwise. It is likely that the center wire has deteriorated insulation or an internal contact is corroded. Repair is the best option as good original switches are nearly impossible to find.

Your best option for a temporary fix is to remove the electrolock from the distributor. If it has the original rectangular "nut" then you will need to remove the three screws holding the points plate and move it down so you can rotate the "nut". If a modern hex nut has been substituted then that step in not necessary. Use the insulating sleeve around the stud and a machine screw to make a replacement contact. Hook a wire and the condensor to the screw and tighten. Put what ever switch you want on the wire and connect the other switch terminal to the wire removed from the cylinder part of the electrolock (just behind the dashboard) to the positive terminal on the coil. Connect the two other wires (one goes to the ammeter the other to the negative post in the coil) on the electrolock together with a machine screw and nut. When ready to start turn on the switch and go.

JYD is correct if the switch pops out when the key is turned clockwise and reseats when pushed in and the key turned counterclockwise. It is likely that the center wire has deteriorated insulation or an internal contact is corroded. Repair is the best option as good original switches are nearly impossible to find.

Your best option for a temporary fix is to remove the electrolock from the distributor. If it has the original rectangular "nut" then you will need to remove the three screws holding the points plate and move it down so you can rotate the "nut". If a modern hex nut has been substituted then that step in not necessary. Use the insulating sleeve around the stud and a machine screw to make a replacement contact. Hook a wire and the condensor to the screw and tighten. Put what ever switch you want on the wire and connect the other switch terminal to the wire removed from the cylinder part of the electrolock (just behind the dashboard) to the positive terminal on the coil. Connect the two other wires (one goes to the ammeter the other to the negative post in the coil) on the electrolock together with a machine screw and nut. When ready to start turn on the switch and go.

Kensams, JYD says the electrolock is repairable but what he didn't say is that he can repair it.