Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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How does go about building the complete rear axle--from torque tube back through the differential? I have a NOS 4:11 ring and pinion and and I think new bushings for the torque tube.

I would like to install new bushings, bearings, and the new ring and pinion. How many bushings are needed--one for the front and one for the rear of the torque tube? Do new seals need to be installed in the torque tube?

How many bearings--are there two differential side bearings? The shop manual says that the ring gear is riveted to the differential case--can these be replaced with bolts, or do they have to be the original rivets? How does one go about re-riveting?

Does anyone already have step by step instructions on rebuilding or restoring the rear axle? Has it been addressed in an earlier G&D issue?

Does anyone on the list have the needed bearings, bushings, and rivets for the 36 Standard (model FC)rear end--including rear wheel bearings?

Thanks again for any help!

(P.S. I have the engine and transmission rebuilt and ready to put back in, but my brother and Dad have talked me into going through the rear axle while things are accessible. When it was last driven, it had a definite vibration and roar in the middle of the car when it was driven at 40-50 mph--it has a new u-joint so my theory is that it is torque tube bushings. The vibration could be felt in the floor of the car--wasn't steering or tire balance. Car has over 120,000 miles, so I would think needs going through anyway)


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I think seals and drive shaft bushings should be replaced if there is any wear at all which there will be with that milage. the ring and pinion my be fine so you should round up the bushings, seals,and other wear parts while you are taking the axle apart and cleaning, inspecting and painting the housing. Check the straightness of the drive-shaft also. A good machine shop or big truck shop should be able to rivet your parts at a reasonable cost.

Last edited by J Franklin; 10/27/10 08:24 PM.

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The 1936 Standard has a front and rear torque tube bushing. The rear yoke of the U jount rides in the front bushing. The rear bushing is right behind it and the drive shaft rides in it. Worn bushings are the usual cause of the drive line vibration along with the U joint. There is a seal behind the rear bushing. On the older models it was usually just made from cork. The seal and bushings came seperatly and fit a 1936 FC only.
There is a front and rear pinion bearing. The front most often goes bad. The front bearing fits many 1930-1936 cars and 1/2 ton trucks including the FC. The 1933-35 Std uses a different bearing.
The rear pinion bearing fits 1934-1936 Standards.
The side carrier bearings are often worn. They fit 1936 Standards and all 1937-1954 passenger cars.
The original were ball and the replacements will be roller.
The rear axle bearings fit 1933-1936 Standards and all 1937-1954 cars. Same for the seales.
As you can see the parts are a strange mixture and all should be found with a little searching.
For some of the parts contact Bruce Bugay - he should have some of the odd parts like the drive shaft bushings and the less common bearings.
Some of the bearings will be available from the Filling Station.

For the actual repair operations I would refer to the 1935-36 shop manual.

Last edited by Chev Nut; 10/27/10 11:08 PM.

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Thanks Gene and J Franklin for the good information! Yep, I've been looking at the shop manual-and of course it calls for the special GM tools for pulling bearings, pressing on etc. So will have to see if some modern pullers could be used.

Since for years I've had a NOS GM ring and pinion (still in the GM box), it would be nice to put it in. To quote the shop manual:

"The ring gear is not serviced separately, but sold riveted to the differential case, therefore no service operations are necessary on this part of the unit, except to check the back face of the ring gear for run out after the differential side bearings have been assembled to the case."

The NOS ring and pinion are in storage and not handy, but will check to see if the ring gear is all one assembly as stated it should be. For some reason, my dim memory thinks it isn't. If it isn't, I'll post back to see if anyone has rivets or ideas on riveting.

And for anyone who has rebuilt or been into one of these rear ends -- any and all tips are welcomed!

Thanks again!


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The 36's seemed to be hard on ring and pinion gears. If you have one I would consider replacement. IMHO.

I may still have a rear axle rebuild manual. Let me know If you would like me to look for It.

Richard


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Richard,

If not too much trouble, I would appreciate it if you could find the rear axle rebuild manual. How long is it--would you be able to make a photocopy? I'd be glad to pay for the copies and your time.

Thanks!

You can email me directly at jrudy@vhcc.edu


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In taking another look at the 35-36 Shop Manual, on p. 78 it says (to remove pinion thrust bearing):

"The lip on the pinion thrust bearing retaining nut should be raised with a chisel and the nut loosened. Cut off the rivet heads, which hold the pinion shaft to the coupling, and drive out the rivets. To remove the pinion [which I would need to to do install the NOS] and coupling from the propeller [drive] shaft, the press or special tool in Fig. 167 is necessary to prevent damage to the pinion and it's bearing [a somewhat complex tool is illustrated--has wedges, etc.]

Then to reassemble: "The coupling is then pressed onto the pinion shaft ... using the tool shown in Fig. 167...Insert the flat head rivets and rivet over the ends."

Has anyone ever done this? Anyone know about the Special tool? Does anyone know what kind of rivets are used? (I didnt' see them in the parts book). Thanks!


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Hi Guys, I'm a little out of my area of knowledge here, but I have an older local VCCA member without computer who has been trying to get some answers on his 36 Standard rear end which has been at the shop most of the summer. He said he has contacted National VCCA and had spoken to someone who said they would send some info but didn't, and when he contacted ( I assume member services), they recommended he check with his local region.
He has a new rear end but his shop cant seem too get it installed correctly. they have tried to make "shims"
He asked if someone had a photo or sketch to show how many shims should be used? If you could let me know the proper questions to ask maybe we may be able to help him get his car back on the road and I may learn something. he is hoping to bring it to Flint . I will recommended they use the shop manual to confirm they have all correct so far. Any help would be great


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I am not familiar with the differences between the Standard and Master differentials if any, but do you know what they are attempting to shim?
Richard


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If a repair shop does not know how to set the rear end then I would suggest finding another shop. The 1936 rear ends are essentially the same as modern ones. The only thing I can think of that is a bit different is the retainer for the pinion bearings. It is a ring that is held in place by three tapered ended bolts.

If shims are needed to set the pinion then they likely will need to be made.

I don't have a '36 repair manual but I am sure it contains detailed instructions on setting up the differential gears.


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I think I misunderstood your post. When you stated your friend had a new rear end, but the shop was having installation problems I assumed that meant installing It in the car not the set up of the rear end. I agree he may not have the right shop.
Richard


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Brad:
I just sent you an e-mail with shimming info. for your friend.
Richard


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Chipper & Richard, I agree he should find another shop... tells me shop has over 40 years experience with rear ends. After reading what Richard sent I'm gonna assume they did not keep front and rear shims separate. He did say it was all a mess when they opened it up so I believe he had many metal shards in there. Thanks again


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I may have all the parts you need, nos
wes 816 547 5006

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Thanks Wes. Will give you a call.


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Hello Wes,

It was good to talk to you a few moments ago--good luck on the 35. The parts I'm specifically looking for are:

Rear wheel bearings/races (2 needed):
Group 5.855 part number 111119, Hyatt C-1500

Side differential bearings (2 needed):
Group 5.536 part number 127861, Hyatt KA 11360-Z

Pinion shaft rear bearing:
Group 5.484 part number 110320 Hyatt C-1504

Pinon shaft front bearing
Group 5.447 part number 905206 New Departure 5206

Front propellor shaft bushing (bronze)
Group 5.451 part number 474922 (I have one front already but might take another)

[already have several rear propellor shaft bushings collected over the years--don't need more]

Ring gear rivets (a good number needed):
Group 5.531 part number 379668

If you have other rear axle parts, just let me know.

You mentioned engine parts as well: Do you have the oil distributor valve Group 1.787, part 838916?

Thanks!
Joel
I can be reached at 276-739-2512 or email jrudy@vhcc.edu


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