VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 Horn wiring 1930 Chevy

Next on my list to do is the Horn. The previous owner had the horn bolted to the top of the intake manifold but not connected. I moved the horn to where it should be - in front of the steering box under the generator - according to many pix I have seen. There is a new old stock wiring harness in this car with black cloth covering over the main wiring. On the side of the steering column above the steering box there is a hole and a wire comes out of the column and goes back into the harness. I checked with an ohmmeter and sure enough - when you pull the steering wheel about 5" down there is a brass ring ( which I had to clean up) and there is continuity from this ring to the wire coming out of the steering column that goes back into the main harness. When you push the horn ring - two metal wires short the brass ring to ground. :confused: Where do I get the take off for connecting the horn??
Thanks
Maurice

The Klaxon Model 8-C horn is mounted inside of the left frame rail next to the generator and forward of the steering box. On the bottom of the steering column, the wire from the mast jacket bushing at the top of the steering column (has the brass ring on it) comes out through a bakelite tube for a short distance, and then the wire continues on and connects to the horn. The hot wire connects to the other terminal on the horn and it goes up to the "horn" terminal (via the wiring loom) on the light switch.

Thanks JYD - I'll check it out tonight!
Maurice

Did what you said and the horn worked too good!! - Would not shut off!! I checked the lead from the steering column and it only had continuity to ground when you pushed the horn button down. Stumped - I started to check the horn. I found that the two terminals you connect power and ground to had an insulator keeping them from shorting to the horn body where they come out of the horn. The positive lead was good but the negative lead was shorted to the horn body - the insulator had deteriorated to the point where it allowed the terminal to short to the body. So I unscrewed the nut from the terminal and looked for something to to use as an insulator. I found the perfect thing! In my junk box was a length of windshield washer tubing that fit over the screw perfectly. So I cut off 1/4" of it and slid it down onto the screw so it went between the screw and the horn body. Tightened up the nut -that crushed the tubing down and made a perfect short free insulator. Hooked up the horn wires again - and - Yippee!! - she works like a charm!!! Hope this tip can help someone else!! I then took the horn apart and sandblasted the casing and diaphram. I clearcoated the diaphram and painted the horn. The paper gaskets on the horn ripped to shreds when I took the horn apart - so I just assembled it without the paper gaskets - the horn sounded terrible and low sound output. Took the horn apart again and took the diaphram and traced the outline on a heavy manilla file folder twice. Took sissors and cut out two nice gaskets. Assembled the horn - and it is louder than ever!! So it appears the gaskets are needed to "float" the diaphram for proper loudness. Hope someone else can use this info. I think the hardest part of my clutch and other escapades on this car was definately the assembly of the universal joint - until Ray gave me the baling wire tip.

Moedip, Now don't you feel like you have really accomplished something worth while? Much more so than if you had pulled off a giant corporation merger?
Now you know why that Old Chevy owners always seem so cheerful and have a smile on their faces ( just don't look at all of their skinned knuckles, grease under their fingernails and toenails, and all of the knots on their heads!)
Congrats on a well reported and informative project!