VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 battery question

I got my CORRECT gas/vacuum line clamps and the CORRECT hose clamps today from chevys of the 40s. I ordered a cut off switch for the neg.terminal because of the shipping. When I went to install it I noticed it wouldn't work because of the battery height. The hatch lid would not shut. Anyone know the CORRECT battery or at least a battery that would work that is workable with the cutoff switch?

The 1937-39 Chevrolet used a slightly lower and longer battery. A battery of that size has not been available for years. The standard group 1 battery just clears the floor cover.
I wanted to install a switch on my '39 years ago and could not for that reason.
You can get a switch that mounts through the firewall and can be controlled from inside of the car with the cables mounting outside.

I put a battery disconnect on my 39 with no problems. Not sure about battery hight,it's a battery from autozone...

YOumay have a battery carrier that allows the battery to hang lower.

Gene, you may be right. It only clears by about 1/4 inch but works great for winter storage. Also works great as a thief deterrent.

wawuzit, I emailed you a photo of the firewall mounted switch Gene mentions. I think I may have sent you this before when you were putting in your town and country horns. I remember you asking me what it was. In any case, I found it so I sent it again. Beamer

This type of switch A Cole Hersee, 75903, is a much better way to go. Nice positive action. More expensive yes. Made in Massachussetts for a LONG time. Make up some 2 ought cables if for 6 volt, and place it close to the battery. Mine is on my pass side floorboard. No fuss no muss. Turn it off when working on the car. No mat lifting. Done.

wawuzit, The switch shown in the link above is the same one that my friend has on his '37 coupe that is in the photo I emailed you. This is a better photo in that it shows the whole switch. Beamer

Hello To All. I have one of these switch's,{ Cole Hersee} but have been waiting to see where would be the best place to mount it so it would be out of the way. On the firewall above the heater or beside it would be my guess. On the pass. side floorboard it would be getting stepped on a lot I think. Any help will be appreciated.
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Joe's 37

...as well a main switch like that is a good theft prevention. Normally no gangster expects a car could have a main switch like that...had it on an old VW 30 years ago and when I went to Italia for holiday the friends there said: Never lock the doors or you will have broken windows next morning, let them enter and try, but be sure no thief has time to search why there is no battery power, he will leave and try to get another car.
And it happened as the italian friends expected. They tried it often, but a car without battery power cannot get started and after one week holiday it was still at same place in the parking lot.

Had it on my gone 1931 chevy too, but more for safety reasons to cut off power during work or because I did not trust these old wires, just to have a better feeling when leaving the car alone.

Regards
Stefangermany

It's pretty much out of the way. The further your reach to the switch, the less you'll use it. And you'll want short runs back to the battery as well. Do you have a metal seat riser in your vehicle? With no fuel tank interference? Maybe mounted vertically on the seat riser?

Thanks Germanchevy and K10 for your input on this. My car is a 37MD so I wouldn't have a metal seat riser like a truck would. So I guess I'll go with one of my original ideas.
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Joe's 37

Here is a photo of this switch mounted on the firewall of a '37 coupe. Beamer

Didja notice it's a later model engine????

Not really, but it belongs to a friend and he told me once what it was but it was so long ago I forgot. Beamer

Thanks for the photo on the position of that switch Beamer. That's a better place to put it than where I was going to. Thanks agin.
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Joe's 37