Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#18467 08/08/06 01:06 PM
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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I have a freshly overhauled engine in my 1932 and overheating is a problem. On the highway with temperatures in the 80's it runs well within normal, but a stop will spike the temperature to alcohol boils. I have determined alcohol boils equals 190 degrees on my gauge by using a thermometer. I have gapped my plugs to 40-45, advanced timing to 18 degrees, and gapped points to 18.

My question is this, has anyone ever tried to increase the coolant capacity by inserting a loop of copper pipe between the lower radiator hose (where the heater would be tapped), under the chassis or somewhere? It seems this pipe would disperse heat and increase coolant capacity. Am I correct that a 30' loop of 1 inch pipe would add about 1 gallon of coolant capacity? Could mount it inside frame.

Just an idea.

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#18468 08/08/06 02:06 PM
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the guys here have previously suggested that, if your stock cooling system is in good order, putting about 1,000 miles on the engine to loosen it up will solve your problem...


ok epi

#18469 08/08/06 06:16 PM
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I would suspect that the radiator core water flow is restricted....very common on 75 year old cores.


Gene Schneider
#18470 08/08/06 07:59 PM
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On the 1932 temperature gauge "Alcohol Boils" is to the left of the gauge on the lower end of normal, not 190 degrees! If your gauge is reading at the "Alcohol Boils" location then your car is running very cool since 190 degrees would be on the right side of the gauge near the red zone (boiling). "Alcohol Boils" on the 1932 temperature gauge is actually round 140 to 150 degrees.

laugh laugh laugh


The Mangy Old Mutt

"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
#18471 08/08/06 09:26 PM
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Confcoach! If you are actually overheating, water boiling out overflow tube, as I was before and after rebuilding my 31, "replace the radiator core", I used a modern core( a 3 point deduction when judged) BINGO!! It runs cool now. or you can get a new honeycomb core at the Filing Station for around 500 frogskins.
I assume the water pump is ok.


Four doors are great

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#18472 08/08/06 10:00 PM
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Hoppy,
Where did you get your modern core and how much did the core cost? A guy told me today he would take off the tanks and resolder for around $70. Might have to go that way. Thanks.
jerrygolf


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#18473 08/09/06 10:57 AM
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Jerrygolf! I was lucky enough to be given one by a member of my local club that he had made at a local radiator shop, the original tanks were used and a new modern core was installed to fit, I do not know what it cost him. He sold the car project and didn`t need it. Since you have it out, why don`t you take it to a shop and ask what they would charge. Last week a member of my local club had a new core installed in a 66 Impala for $225. I personally believe a new core will solve your problem. Hope this helps.


Four doors are great

Hoppy
#18474 08/09/06 11:02 AM
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Jerrgolf! I forgot to say, if your man can do this for $70 and pressure test it for leaks than maybe it will work, anyway the price is right. I was told that most radiator shops won`t even try to repair those honeycombs.


Four doors are great

Hoppy
#18475 08/09/06 01:00 PM
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Thanks Hoppy,
I didn't make myself to clear. The radiator man said he would take the old tanks off and resolder to the new core for about $70 but didn't know for sure what type of modern core to order so it would work. Anyone know what type of core would work besides the honeycone?
Thanks


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#18476 08/09/06 01:55 PM
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the radiator shop whould be able to measure your old core and then order a new finned style core to attach your tanks to. i suspect the cost will ber about half that of the filling station's honeycomb core. mike

#18477 08/09/06 08:51 PM
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You have the option of a fin & tube, cellular (aka "V" cell) or honeycomb. The least expensive is the tube type. I just ordered one for my '28 for $ 270 ready to install. The radiator shop needs to get the core manufacturer to use a "reverse" header so the original tanks can be installed. The "V" cell ready to install was $ 375. It would cool better than the fin & tube but since the car will be a tour car and not a parade special the extra cooling was not required. The honeycomb core is $ 550 plus shipping and installation or $ 700 - $ 750 ready to install.

An interesting fact. Our local area ~ 70k population 50 miles from Houston TX used to have 6 radiator shops. Now there is one and possibly two (the owner of the shop was not sure if an older gentleman with a shop in his backyard was still working). And then copper prices are sky high and not likely to come down any time soon. So, the best advise is to buy those radiators before it will be more difficult to find a good shop or afford the product.


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