VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 What to do first

Just bought my '29 international sedan which is complete (interior is good, glass is all good and go up and down, all lights but the brake and dome light work). 41k miles and has been in storage for 55 years. The owner drained gas tank and radiator when storage began. The motor is loose. Surface rust only and no dents. The Electrolock is stuck in the depressed position. Two sets of keys are with the car. Set 1 has Delco Remy is on one side with Basco on the other side. The #s are C1615. Set 2 has Briggs & Stratton on one side and Basco on the other. The #s on that set are C1695. I am wondering where to start my journey to a driver. I really want the Electrolock working before I go too far.
Mechanically, what is the Electrolock supposed to do when the key is inserted and turned? Should the center pop out? I see it runs to the coil in a metal sheath. What is the sheath protecting?
Thanks

Welcome to Chevy Chatter II. Glad that you could join us!

For 1929, the electrolock does not run to the coil.....it goes to the side of the distributor and the electrolock terminal stud is attached to the points inside of the distributor.

When the key is turned to the right, the lock cylinder will "pop out" which activates the ignition.

The armored cable of the electrolock is protecting the wire that is inside of the cable. The internal wire goes to the points in the distributor.

The electrolock is an anti-theft device so that the car cannot be hot-wired.

Thanks Junkyard Dog,
Sorry, I misspoke with coil.
Is the Delco Electrolock something that is worth repairing? Or is it made of pot metal too.

1929_AC_sedan,

"Is the Delco Electrolock something that is worth repairing?"

The answer is maybe.

"Or is it made of pot metal too."?

The answer is yes, two parts are pot metal. They are the inside cylinder where the key is inserted and contains the wafers. The other one is also a cylinder between the inside one and outside steel housing. If the two pot metal parts have expanded enough to not rotate freely the repair can be problematic. If those parts rotate freely the lock can be repaired. If they rotate even a little sometimes they can be taken apart and saved. There are two people on ChatII that have rebuilt many of the popout type electrolocks like in your '29.

The plunger is in the pushed in position. It can be pushed in about 1/8th of an inch more past what looks normal. The key turns the center about a 1/16th whether you are pushing in or not. Looks like the next step is removal of the Electrolock. There must be some sort of specialized tool to do this. I tried to make a wrench out of a piece of coat hanger in a "u" shape with the ends bent at 90 degrees toward each other. Didn't work. May try tapping it loose with a punch next. Would attempt a vice grip but am concerned that might bend something out of shape.

The electrolock bezel can be removed by carefully using a small punch in one of the blind holes and then taping it gently counter-clockwise with a hammer.

It is far better to use a spanner wrench. I have made a few using a piece of aluminum (better because softer) or steel. If you are going to use pliers make sure to put a piece of leather or rubber between the jaws and bezel so it is not damaged. Vice grips are not recommended as they can more easily damage the bezel.

You also may want to first try just a pair of latex gloves, squeeze hard and turn. The gloves provide incredible traction. I've had that work before and it doesn't scratch anything!


All the Best, Chip

Thanks for the glove idea. I will try the home made wrench idea next.
How do I detached the Electrolock cable from the distributor? Do I remove the rectangular nut threaded to the stud on the inside first? It looks like that nut attaches the cable to the points.

The answers are: Yes, and yes!

Actually it is far easier to first remove the three screws holding the points plate to the distributor body. That allows the plate to drop down so the rectangular nut can be unscrewed without interference. Most people replace the original rectangular nut with a hex nut so it can be more easily removed. Chevrolet made the rectangular nut large enough to hit the points plate as part of the theft deterrent function of the electrolock.

Got the Electrolock out with a punch. No damage to the bezel. Am ready to drop the plate and remove the rectangular nut but am wondering about where the wire that runs down to the bottom of the distributor attaches. Also, when the time comes what do you recommend as a fuel additive, motor oil, and what do I do to flush out the motor/radiator. Also...is the cooling system sealed? Should I run distilled water only? Thanks!

The FIRST thing I recommend you do is to go the Filling Station website www.fillingstation.com and buy the owner's manual and the repair manual for your '29. Those two books contain a ton of information about driving, servicing and repairing the car. Then, as you continue on, you could add the Master Parts Price List which contains tons of drawings and the Chevrolet Service News for 1928, 1929 and 1930 which contain lots more useful information about the car.

Welcome to Chevy Chatter II! Glad you got your electrolock out of the dash.

As to your other questions, consensus seems to be as follows:

-- Oil: Any good quality 10W-30 or 10W-40 oil will be fine. No additives recommended.
-- Gas: Regular unleaded is fine. No additives.
-- Coolant: Clean tap water and normal antifreeze to provide freeze protection and anticorrosion. Strength of solution as needed for your climate. If you need to flush the cooling system, plain water is the way to go, not the commercial radiator flush unless you're ready for leaks, etc.

Hope you've joined the VCCA -- you'll enjoy your car even more. Have fun!

All the Best, Chip

Are you referring to the wire to the condenser? It should run from the condenser that is screwed to the bottom of the body and has a terminal on the other end fits into a slot in the cap and sandwiched between two washers on the electrolock center stud.

My VCCA app. is in the mail. Thanks.

Yup that is it.
Thanks.

By the way, my wife is concerned that the speedometer has an "85" reading on it. I guess I am too. How fast will the car go on level ground?

...62 MPH with a tail wind.

Are there any '29 Chevrolet clubs here or on VCCA?

There are many '29 Chevy owners in the VCCA and one Technical Adviser that has owned '29 Chevys for 40+ years. All Regions are geographical except for one Chat Group Chapter. You could start and non-geographical region of '29 owners if you get enough other members to join.

Going back to your original question "What to do first", there are a number of important things to check and prepare before you start an engine which has been sitting idle for a long time. If you're not careful, you can ruin a perfectly good engine that could have been saved with a few hours work. The following thread has some ideas and spending some time searching through the '29-'32 forum here may give you some others.

https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php...e_Starting_an_engine_for_the_#Post169940

Hope that helps.

All the Best, Chip

PS -- The VCCA is the '29 Chevy (and the 1912,1913, ..... 1984, 1985 Chevy) Club! You're in the right place.

Thanks Chip! Sounds like fun.
How do I "Prime the fuel system to fill the carburetor bowl with fuel."?
Dan

Hi Dan

How to to "prime"the carburetor? Drill a small hole ( 2 mm) in the top of the carburetor and use a squirt with a 1,5 mm needle.Direct fuel inject in the brass bowl.I use a 20 ml squirt,and 2 -3 injektions will fill the brass bowl and the engine starts at ones after month of storing. 1928 and older carburetor have this vent hole from the factory.

I don't recommend starting an engine immediately after a long time without it running. The major reason is lubrication. The stress on moving parts is much less when turned by the starter than by explosions in the cylinders. Also some of the lubricant between parts will drain away. Having the engine turn over several time before firing is a good thing.

Second you can add gasoline to prime the updraft carburetors by introducing small amounts into the air intake of the carburetor. There is enough of a depression near the standpipe to accept a couple of ounces of fuel and holes that will drain it into the bowl. Takes a few minutes but does not require drilling any extra holes or special equipment. It is easier to add the fuel with the carburetor off the manifold but can be done with it in place. Remove the heat tubing or air cleaner to get unobstructed access to the air intake.

Also I don't use starting fluid but aerosol carburetor cleaner as a starting aid. Is not nearly as hazardous as starting fluid. It can be squirted directly into the air intake in short bursts either before or during cranking the engine.