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Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 446
Backyard Mechanic
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OP
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 446 |
Experience needed...
Am straight on the way to buy that 1940 (some postings about here). Is, as I know, in original technical condition and did not regularely drive since many years.
My question: Before, with the 1931 I did learn a rear end leaking out into the brake drums is an usual thing caused by weak old original felt seals at outer axle shaft and many 1931 drivers have or had problems there.
Is that still a problem at the 1940 model or are they better? Is the seal as easy to change as it was at my 1931? Just some bolts, done within very short time?
Dont have a 1940 manual yet.
In case of buying that 1940 car I would like to have that problem fixed before a poor seal begins to leak and before getting spoiled brakes. I guess there are replacement modern lip seals available at Filling station Oregon.
Thanks for advice,
Stefangermany
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,037 Likes: 5
ChatMaster - 2,000
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ChatMaster - 2,000
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,037 Likes: 5 |
I have not changed my rear axle seals yet on my 40. I have driven the car 25,000 miles since I put this differential in the car. I did remove both rear axles at one point. It took me a maximum of about 5 minutes of time to remove both axles. My seals looked great and were not leaking on the differential.
dtm
the toolman
60th Anniversary Meet Chairperson
Dave
VCCA # L 28873
VCCA #83 Tool Technical Advisor for 1914-1966
VCCA #83 1940 Chevrolet Technical Advisor
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141 |
The original seals in 1940 were metal encased with a leather lip. Since about the mid '50's they changed to a neoprene rubber lip. The seal fits from 1933-1954.
To remove the axles you remove the differential cover, remove the bolt that locks the spider ger shaft in place, remove spider ear, remove axle horse shoe locks and remove axles.
From the looks of the condition of that car I would guess just about everything mechanocal will need rebuilding including the complete brake system and engine.
If I were wanting a 1940 I would wait and see if a good one comees up for sale in the G&D. Would look for a car that has been driven on a regular bases. There are a lot of VCCA members getting rid of the (excess_ cars.
I am afraid all the car will be getting is a paint job.
Last edited by Chev Nut; 09/26/10 01:22 PM.
Gene Schneider
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 822
ChatMaster - 750
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ChatMaster - 750
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 822 |
Hey Stefan, Wie geht es Innen?
You don't need The Filling Station or any other over priced antique car parts vendor.
The seal you need is SKF part number 15557 or an equivalent from any other quality seal manufacturer. Anyone who carries bearings and power transmission components has them.
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 822
ChatMaster - 750
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ChatMaster - 750
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 822 |
Oops, I meant Wie geht es Ihnen?
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