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Joined: Jul 2010
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Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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Finally with all your help got the 36 running great. Took it out for it's first street ride and around 30-35 mph the front end started to shake. Since I have the fenders off I could see the left front tire shaking badly. I am thinking I should first have the wheels balanced but would be interested in any ideas that I should address. I have no idea how fast this thing should run but at 30-35mph "third gear" it seemed to me that there was not much more there?? Are these things geared high and if so can one change the rear end gear to get more mph??
thanks again , Bill
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Joined: Nov 2001
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Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
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Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
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Your 1936 should cruise at 45 to 55 with no problem. On the front end shake, you should adjust your steering box, and, if you haven't done so, rebuild the drag link and the tie rod ends. That should help to eliminate the front end shake.   
The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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Joined: Dec 2001
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Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
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Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
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Check toe in and wheel ballance. What type of shocks are on the car? Does it have knee action?  
RAY Chevradioman http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/1925 Superior K Roadster 1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet 1933 Eagle, Coupe 1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe 1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan 1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible 2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van 2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ 2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road. Death is the number 1 killer in the world.
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Joined: Jul 2010
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Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
Joined: Jul 2010
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Joined: Jan 2002
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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I wouldn't bother balancing the tires if you are planning on installing new ones. If they are new there is a defect in them to be that far out of balance at that low of a speed.
I would suspect the tie rod ends and or drag link have loose or broken internal springs (see shop manual) the steering is loose and just plain worn out (normal) and the king pins are loose.....all or a combination of the above. And with those items loose, balance at a lower speed would show up.
When I got my '34 years ago it would begin to shimmy at 20 MPH. The knee-action units were also worn out and would not hold fluid and were "bouncy"
The cars have a 4.11 rear end. They were geared for good hill climbing and 55 MPH. I drove my '34 from 55 to 60 MPH on the interstae was it was smooth and quiet. You can not compare them to a modern car.
Last edited by Chev Nut; 08/23/10 10:36 PM.
Gene Schneider
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Joined: Dec 2002
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 689 |
There was a lower (numerically) gear ratio available but was most often used on fleet cars and taxis. It has a 3.81 ratio for better fuel economy. These are very rare.
Remember too that in '36 there were no superhighways, so cruising at 30 to 40 mph was about as good as it got.
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 63
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 63 |
I have a 36 high cab 1/2 ton which I intend to drive if it ever get finished and I do not intent to show it. With that in mind I changed the clamshell tie rod ends to regular ball joints which are available from Jimmy Carter Classic Truck Parts. I also upgraded the drag link to a ball joint type. If your interested go to Stovebolt.com Go tech tips and suspensions look for 1935 chevy drag link upgrade. I wrote the article, it should have said 1936 but it doesn;t really matter. It will make your steering a lot safer and tighter.
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Joined: Jan 2002
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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A 1934-38 knee-action car will steer and handle like a dream with the original ends. The proper adjustment and round balls are important. Plus all the inner parts mustbe properly assembled as per the shop manual.
Gene Schneider
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Joined: Apr 2008
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2008
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I would strongly recommend to anyone with knee action shocks and experiences the wheels wobbling after hitting a bump or potholes over 20mphs, to install a Ford model A steering stabilizer. I was afraid to drive over 30mph and hitting a bump until a friend with a `36 Chev Coupe and vintage Fords said he tried it and it worked great. It's easy to install. It's a small shock absorber with one end having u-bolts that will fit around your steering tie-rod between the front wheels. The other end has a plate that I was able to bolt to the bottom of the car frame under the radiator. I found an existing nut and bolt and didn't need to do any drilling.
Mac's auto supply on the internet carries the Model A steering stabilizers.
Matt
Matt
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Joined: Jan 2002
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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While it may cover-up the problem first I would mke sure everything is tight and safe. The knee-action cars never had a shimmy problem when all was OK but would be more common on a solid axle car.
Gene Schneider
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Joined: Sep 2018
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Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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Aloha,
A VW steering stabilizer for an original Beetle worked wonders on my 35 Standard. Good Ol' J C Whitney.
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ChatMaster - 1,000
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ChatMaster - 1,000
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I would jack the car off the ground about two inches in the front. Then grab that left tire and move side to side and then top to bottom to see where the linkage moves the most. That will show you which ball joint has a problem. Also, get a friend to do it while you check the linkage. Be sure to check out the kingpins, too [watch for movement in that area]. That is the way I found the problem ball joints on my car.
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Joined: Sep 2007
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2007
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While it may cover-up the problem first I would mke sure everything is tight and safe. The knee-action cars never had a shimmy problem when all was OK but would be more common on a solid axle car. Listen to this advice, use a stabilizer after all is ok just for your personal habits.
J Franklin
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