VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 1931 Coach Radiator

I have attached opposite photos of 2 radiators. The left one is stamped Harrison 3053 31 E, and was manuf. in Lockport NY. It has a 5/8" filler neck (stops just below lip on top of rad shell), 2 tabs for mounting on sides, and a fitted bottom mounting piece secured to bottom tank. It came with a chromed brass shell I picked up on eBay.
The right one came in my '31 Coach in a steel shell and has no markings. This rad has a 1&1/8" filler neck, small mounting tabs on top, full side mounting skirts with 3 tabs (only 2 are used), and no bottom mounting piece. Both seemed to perfectly fit their respective shells, but are not easily fitted to the opposite shell without some filing of slots etc.
Which is likely original or closer to what my car would have had, not withstanding the possibility a Canadian car may have differed from American ones.

the one one the right has the correct inlet but the filler neck might be too tall for a 31. mine measures 1 1/8"

Interesting Dad's31? JYD and Chipper figure left rad is correct, with a 5/8" high filer neck. The reproduction one has a 1&1/8" high filler neck. So which is correct neck height? Clearly the left rad is for a '31 Chev, so that may suggest your car has a different type rad if neck height is 1&1/8". Also, the one with the higher neck allowed use of a conventional rad cap with the protruding arms for twisting on/off fully above rad shell, while the shorter 5/8 neck is too low to allow use of a cap like that and needs one that's deeper with simple round edge.

The radiator on the left is the most correct. However the top inlet is not correct and the neck is too short. The inlet and neck on the replacement (on the right) look to be correct. All the necks on the '31 radiators I measured are 1 1/8-1 1/4" above the tank.

the correct radiator has a 4 piece mounting system that the bottom piece is very difficult to find because of rot. I guess that's why aftermarket radiators of the day came with mounting attached.

this is a spare I have. the tanks are good but the core has a large puncture wound. it is marked 31 F



this is a NOS cap purchased many years ago.



the cap installed on a 1 1/8" neck



I also have a near perfect aftermarket radiator with all the correct dimensions except the neck is 2" tall.

I have the Harrison 3053 31E rad in Rad Shop to be checked out, hope it is solid, and I can modify inlet.

However, the neck height puzzles me. It appeared to be all original at 5/8" high. When rad was installed in shell, neck was about flush with top lip of shell opening, leaving about 1/8" gap all around. The other tank with the 1&1/8" neck protruded about 1/2" above the shell. When installed, what is proper measure between top of rad neck and top of shell opening, i.e. flush, or 1/2" or? If neck needs to be made higher, I assume rad shop can do that?

Beautiful rad cap in picture Dad's 31, could you show me a pic of your rad/shell with cap off so I can see how finished job is supposed to be, and also pic of cap from underside? I have an original Viking Top in great condition, but no base, and was contemplating making a unit using it and a standard rad cap, fastening the two together in a clean neat fashion. Not authentic, but option is to spring for FS's unit at $$$$

Just so folks know the "NOS cap" pictured is actually a NORS cap or new old replacement stock. The diecast original caps suffered from rapid corrosion and therefore did not last very long. Stanley's Parts has made a steel copy that looks good when installed.

all I know it was in a Chevrolet box, purchased in the mid 70s. so I guess I was snookered

Those caps were made to replace the original nearly worthless diecast ones. They were made to look similar to the original when installed and last much longer. They were sold by Chevrolet and also aftermarket suppliers.

Re my ? about how far filler neck typically protrudes above shell opening, any advice Chipper?

I coated the underside of the cap with epoxy, after a month of use it started to rust badly

the neck is 3/8" above the lip of the shell

The height above the shell varies depending on how the radiator fits into the band around it and the shell is attached to the band. There is a little adjustment between them. I have seen them about even to maybe 1/2" above. If they are even then there is little to no space between the bottom of the cap and radiator shell. If too high then the bottom edge of the cap shows. The gap between the shell and radiator neck is so the bottom of the cap can be below the top of the shell and you can get your hand on the cap to rotate it. Looks better that way also.

the bottom of the cap is indeed below the lip of the shell but high enough to get a grip. it's a very clean look. there is also clearance between the cap and shell around the circumference of the cap. everything fit the first time bolting it together! that doesn't happen often, I was so proud!!

When I pick up my rad tomorrow and assuming it is OK, then I will trial fit to shell and see what I have as a neck problem. Since neck is only 5/8" high I am scratching my head to figure out why if it is supposed to be 1&1/8" or so. Could be a previous owner shortened it. I will also ask rad shop if it can be extended. Thanks again, and great pics Dad!

thanks, glad to help

what will you use for a upper hose?

Oh well, the rad shop has helped me decide what to do! The original 3053 would make a great "screen door" to use their words. I will keep it in case I ever decide to restore it as tanks and everything but core are good.
So I modified the mounting slots on the old reproduction one, and it has centered in the chrome shell very near perfect. Top of neck is about 1/4"-3/8" above shell opening. Will show some new pics of finished job, only achieved with confidence due to all the solid advice from you all (or is that y'all). Thanks