Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#179729 08/03/10 10:18 AM
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Hi gals & guys, I'm looking for an old thread on changing
out the rear trans seal and the rear axel seals on a 29 2 door sedan. Are there any new type of seals from the FS? I have the eng. out and now is the time to go though the trans. I don't
see any seals for the trans in the repair manual. I only know about the axel seals. Thanks Stage tech.

Filling Station - Chevrolet & GMC Reproduction Parts


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You could consider using sealed bearings in the transmission. Especially the front bearing. Just remove the seal on the side that is facing the center of the transmission.

Agrin devil


RAY


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1925 Superior K Roadster
1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet
1933 Eagle, Coupe
1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe
1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan
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2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van
2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Thanks for the tip. the front bearing looks easy to get to .Do I have to dismantal the whole trans to get the rear bearing out? Is there a special bearing puller for it? Thanks

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NO! However you will need to do a partial dis-assembly. No special puller is needed to change the bearings. You will need a press to assist in the changing.

Agrin devil



RAY


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1925 Superior K Roadster
1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet
1933 Eagle, Coupe
1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe
1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan
1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible
2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van
2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ
2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ

If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road.
Death is the number 1 killer in the world.


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Backyard Mechanic
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Filling station has sealed bearings for the rear axle. Put them on my 30, no problems.


karl
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Thanks Ray & Karl for the info, I always seem to have just one more question ( just like columbo). Ray do I tap the bearing out from the inside or how do I pull it out? And If I was to quess witch part needed to be pressed back on would it be the universal/speedometor yoke? And Karl do the sealed rear bearing just tap in like front bearings? Thanks again guys
Richard

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The front bearing is driven out from the inside after removing the retainer on the outside. The rear bearing is tapped out the same as the front.

Agrin devil



RAY


Chevradioman
http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/



1925 Superior K Roadster
1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet
1933 Eagle, Coupe
1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe
1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan
1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible
2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van
2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ
2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ

If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road.
Death is the number 1 killer in the world.


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Oil Can Mechanic
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sealed axle bearings removes the chance of brake shoe contamination. with sealed bearing there is no where for the differential to vent. I installed a vent on top of one of the axle tubes away from the ring gear's slinging of the lube

a brass punch is a good investment for removing the trans bearings. I went with a sealed bearing for the front, removing the rear barrier for lubrication. since the u-joint shares lubrication with the trans I stayed with an open bearing. in case the prop shaft seal failed, the u-joint wouldn't be starved for lube since there's no simple way to check the fluid level in the u-joint housing.

be aware of the cup that surrounds the rear trans bearing and not damage it when removing the bearing. and too the slinger that's behind the front bearing.


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I was just wondering if a vent for the rear end could be made by drilling a small hole in the top bolt of the differential cover

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A better idea is a 1/8" hole in the top of the axle tube about 12" to the right or left of center. If you put it in the diff cover or drill through the bolt as you've proposed, it is likely to leak because a lot of oil is being slung around in there by the gears when you're up to speed. Out over the axles is a lot quieter. It's also a good idea to put a loose fit cotter pin in the hole to allow air to go in and out but keep the dirt out.

Hope that helps.

All the Best, Chip


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Oil Can Mechanic
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the lube is being thrown around like crazy inside the differential and any orifice close to the ring gear will be an exit path.

I found a large headed brad that is .080" in dia., drilled a hole just a hair larger in the top of the axle tube about 4" inboard of the spring perch. the brad head covers the hole but allows air to inter or exit the differential.

If fording creeks or traveling in hub deep mud this wouldn't be the best idea.

I drilled the hole while the axle was out so as to catch any shavings in a shop rag

years ago I had a pickup that I couldn't keep the dif cover from leaking. When I removed the cover there was a pressure release and a light bulb went off over my head. it was one of those "ah-ha" moments. I found a dirt dobber had built a nest over the vent tube attached to the frame.



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Thank you both for the information and I like your ideas better and your reasoning behind them.

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Shade Tree Mechanic
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I think that there is a neat and professional way to vent the rear axle. I plan to do this on my '30 Chevy rear axle. Starting with the 1937 Chevy and running up to at least 1951, Chevy installed a vent. It is Group No 5.502 and is known as "Ventilator, Rear Axle". There are 2 part numbers. For "37-'51 the part number is 3664539. For '37-'40 they have a part number 3652364. This vent is installed on top of the axle, and fits in a threaded hole. The vent has a loose cap on top, so it vents air out, but prevents dirt and water from entering. So where do you get one of these magic vents? I plan to try a dealers parts department, but expect to strike out. Then I'll resort to the local junkyard, and expect to find a vent on a much more recent axle than 1951. If anyone finds a source for these vents, please let us all know. And finally, I should mention that you have to remove the axle and drill a hole in the top of the axle housing, then use a plumber's tap to cut the threads for the vent. Then flush the metal chips out of the axle housing. Some work, but you end up with a professional job.


Don H
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It is getting harder to find a junkyeard in my area.


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