VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 1931 front ends

what is the best front end to put under my 31 chevy 5 window i want to do a drop axle but this is the first rod iv done i want something that drives good down the road its going to be a driver not a trailer queen its all original now i will have all the original stuff i dont use up for sale when i figure out what im going to do thanks travis

Oh Oh your going to get it now! Messing with an original Chevy. We are dedicated to peserving not rodding. :eek: :eek:

to each his own i want something i can drive from coast to coast if i want

Maybe try chevytalk.com they can help you out over there. :cool2:

" i want a drop axle" that i can drive coast to coast. there is no such front suspension assembly, I-beam, dual leaf spring set-up with drop axle provisions, that i'd want to drive coast to coast. if you want a coast to coast street rod, independent front susp is the only way that'll get you coast to coast in a confortable manner. many IFS systems have been grafted to old chevy frames by the street rodders over the last 40+ years. my preferred IFS would be a c-4 corvette IFS which can be welded to your 31 frame. you can pick one of the c-4 IFS for about 500 bucks. i like the looks of an I-beam front suspension for an early chevy street rod but wouldn't consider it for cross-country road tours. i suspect you'll be installing a late model drivetrain in your street rod and want to cruise the interstates at 70 + mph, so the droped axle option would be a poor choice." this is the first rod i've done" leads me to believe you'll be unhappy with the drop axle system you desire.mike PS: unless the 31 you are working on is beyond restoration, i too , like the majority of posters on this site, would prefer you keep it stock.however, the car's title is in your name.regards and good luck, mike

thanks iv been this is a nice car it has been in a metal building since 1978 everthing seems to be here i did loose the top and front visor while i was towing it back other than that it is complete solid vehicle thanks again travis

Buy a Saab Aero you'll run rings around almost any street rod and have some real fun. Save the oldies for what they are.

well if you all want this original so bad find me a 5 window coupe already a street rod and i will trade you thanks travis

Travis,
I'm not trying to argue with you.
There are tons of hot rod coupes original steel, reproduction steel and fiberglass kits. I just made one quick search in yahoo and found this '31 "project". Whatever you want you know -it's your car. Check out this link:

http://restored-classic.com/chevy/1931.html

Scroll down on the right hand side of the page near the bottom. There is a '31 three window coupe. I have no idea how old this ad is.

Just look around a little and chances are you'll find one already started and maybe save yourself time, work and money while not destroying a nice original.

Other than that I'll just echo what Tims37 said.

i just looked at the body numbers here they are job No 31567 body s 4296 trim 1 paint68 engine numbers 836409 g 7 1 28xx does anyone know what all the numbers stand for thanks travis

Job Number "31567" indicates that the vehicle is a 1931 5-window coupe.

S = St. Louis factory and "4296" means that the vehicle was the 4,296th 5-window coupe built in the St. Louis factory in 1931.

Trim 1 indicates that the seat cushions, backs and sides were upholstered in "plush" material and the headliner was cotton velvet.

Paint number "68" specifies that the vehicle was originally painted Boulevard Maroon and Black with Black wire wheels and Pale Gold Bronze striping.

"836409" is not the engine number....it is the block casting number and that number was cast on the 1931 engine block.

"G 7 1" indicates that the engine block was cast on July 7, 1931.

thanks for the info travis

You bet!

whats a 1931 chevy motor and tranny,front end,rearend,steering column,spare tire holder and the 5 wheels worth ? thanks

2tallOkie, would that be the complete chassis and drive line, brake setup (drums shoes, peddles, control rods, etc.?) except for the frame rails and crossmembers?
I know of one with the frame and everything, rolling chassis, complete good running engine radiator, transmission and all road ready front mount fenders, rear fenders, that sold for around a thousand dollars on location, to be picked up In your area of the country.

JYD,

Don't you have to subtract a thousand from the number, or am I all wet again?

yeah its everthing except the frame im using it on project thanks

If the engine is a good runner and the vehicle was a strong road worthy car before recently taken apart then the $ 1K might be justified. If recently dragged out of a barn or garage and not run on the road for many years then $ 100 - $ 400 is more likely the value.

George33Eagle: Yep, you are all wet again.

On the car serial number 1,000 is subtracted from the number since the serial numbers started at 1,001. On the body number (shown above) the number shown is the actual number of the body produced.