VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 Pre-start checks

Hello everyone,
In the postings - Page 156 - 'A NEWBIE HERE'. Junkyard Dog's to do list, for a 1929 Chevy sitting for 30 years before starting- FORUM #10951 12/14/04. Two items are listed that I would like to know how to do correctly. 'Remove and Test the Coil' and 'Clean the COMM. on both the Generator and Starter Armatures'. I'm not familiar with doing these items and do not wish to damage anything. These procedures must be in the manuals somewhere, which I have, but I have not searched for yet. A discussion in this forum on the 'how to' with opinions will augment the manuals greatly. I am working on a 1931 Chevrolet Coach and am just recently - A NEWBIE HERE.

A quick way to check the coil to see if it will produce spark is to rotate the motor so the points are closed. Place the high voltage lead from the coil near,say 3/8", to a ground (any exposed metal surface on the motor). Switch on the ignition (with battery installed of course) and manually, with an insulated probe, like a small wood dowel, open the points. You should see a spark at the end of the high voltage wire if the coil is working. There could still be other problems with the coil, especially if it heats up, but this will at least tell you if you have any spark prior to trying to start the engine.

For the commutator, page 209 of the 1929/1930 Repair Manual states:



Dan

Good morning-I just found forum# for prestart checks but couldn't find post so do you think you could repost or lead me in right direction-194 sat for 28yrs-was stuck but now free-also as I'm on very limited income(as I'm sure we all are)do you know where I can download manuals for 30 4dr sedan or get proper printed ones-thank you

Both the starter and generator have rotating armatures that have copper segments (commutators) at the end of the field windings. Carbon brushes make contact with the commutators and can leave sooty or ash like deposits on the comutator that can affect performance. Remove the brushes and use a solvent to wipe the comutator clean. Also use a small pick or thin blade to clean between each of the copper segments. Any deep ridges on the commutators can be removed with very fine sandpaper but don't cut too deep. Check the brushes for wear and replace as needed. By winding fine sandpaper around the cummutator and replacing the brushes you can seat in new brushes. You can usually skip this part as new (soft) brushes will eventually seat themselves.

You can order a shop manual for your 1930, and a lot of other really cool 1930 literature as well, from the Filling Station in Lebanon, Oregon. Go here: www.fillingstation.com

For a checklist before starting the engine, have a look here:

https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php...e_Starting_an_engine_for_the_#Post167599

For the online manuals, you could have a look here,

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/

But the Dog is right, the best thing to do is to save up and buy the hard copy manuals from the Filling Station..... I'd start with the Owner's Manual, then the Service Manual, then the Master Parts Price List (which has tons of drawings), then the Chevrolet Service News. Just the first two would be a giant leap forward.

Hope that helps.

All the Best, Chip

Thanks for quick and informative response-todays question is this-is this correct # as listed 4 carb rebuild kit for 1930 194-carter c-RJH-08 or is carb listed by different designation or model #-carb cleaned up well but accelater pump cup is whiped and expansion spring is missing if it came equiped with one-throat is also stamped with C-29 (date ?)
Thanks again

There are three types of Carter RJH-08 carburetors: The 126-S (early 1929), the 135-S (late 1929) and the 150-S (1930-31). Before ordering a carburetor kit you will need to determine which carburetor you have. If the model tag is missing, then you can describe the carburetor here and we will help you with its identificiation.

Once again thanks for info-I'll try to describe carb as tag is missing-side or I always though of them as up draft-2 screw perpendicular bracket for throttle and choke cables-side mounted upright cylinder for accelerator pump-metering rod attached to butterfly-round float bowl with single large nut-throttle shaft goes through arm and is held in place by return spring and finally C-29 is stamped on outside of throat(where air cleaner or spark arrester would go if it had one-if this isn't sufficient info I'll try again after I hear from you-while I have your ear,I always called them drip trays on model A,s-what are panels that run along frame rail and lower engine block and finally is car positive or negative ground(going to buy manuals as soon as I have $ and give you folks a break)-thanks once again

So far, you have described all three models of the RJH-08 carburetor. Can you post a photo of the carburetor and then we can tell you which model you have?

Basically, the model 150-S carburetor has a long external accelerator pump cylinder with a rubber boot on top. Is your carburetor like as described?

The "panels" that you described are actually engine underpans.

All Chevrolets are negative ground.

The Carter RJH-08 used on early '29 Chevys has a short fat accelerator pump (1" in diameter)[125S]. The plunger is exposed and directly pinned to the pump arm. The later '29 [136S] has a longer pump (~3" x 3/4") with a brass cover that covers the plunger. The plunger is attached to the pump arm by a brass rod. The later [150S] looks like the later '29 but has internal parts that are different. Beginning in later '30 a rubber cover replaced the brass one on the pump. As carburetors were repaired the rubber covers were typically used on the earlier carburetors.

Because of running changes there are actually more than three variations of those carburetors. Those later modifications were still considered as model 150S carburetors.

Hopefully the above description will allow you to get the correct parts. If it proves to be too much of a problem. There are two experienced rebuilders for those carburetors in the VCCA.

Thank you-yes it is as you described with external cylinder with boot on top

Sounds like you have a Carter 150-S carburetor.