VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 chevy wood replacement

I'm preparing to replace all the wood in my 1932 Chevrolet Confederate 4DSD. Does the body have to be cut, or is there another way? Anyones experience (good or bad) would be appreciated. Thanks.

Chas1932@aol.com
:)

I just went through the wood replacement on my 32 2dr coach. I had the same problem trying to figure where to start. I cut mine about 8inches back from the windshield and went to it. I can send you some photo's if you want,just e-mail me.
Good luck, once you get it done you'll be a pro. :)

I have just replaced all the wood in my 1931 pickup. I started to take it apart and copy every piece of wood exactly like the original. I found that the pieces were not perfect when they were made. I had to remake many pieces so I would end up with perfect fits and exact to meet the metal covers. One door was over 1/4 inch out. But now it is perfect. A lot of the wood also srunk and tristed through the years so be carefull and double check all fits.

I've just finished replacing all the wood on my 32 5-window coupe using the Rodman kit. It was done without cutting the body but, after talking to some people it probably would have been easier if I had cut the body. I have minor problems now where the metal doesn't fit exactly to the wood. After all these years I guess this is to be expected and I can deal with it. Fitting the doors is another problem. My alignment came out fine but I have to find a way to pull in the bottom rear of the doors to meat the quarter panel.

If it's any indication, I have a restoration book where the author cautions about restoring wood frame cars, and points out old Chevrolets as particularly troublesome! The main challenges are trying to shim the wood correctly after restoration.

I have made some very minor replacements on my '32. On the easy side, I discovered that the floorboard were nothing but 3/4" plywood, so that was easy to trace and cut on fresh wood.

For some door posts and roof braces, I figured its better to keep what's still useable and is out of sight anyway. In those cases, I used brush-on wood hardener that you find at hardware stores. That stuff can be dabbled on to soak into the wood pores, and it provides a reasonable stable support.

Chas32 I have a 32 three window coupe. I did research on restoring the wood. Rodman is definately the man people go to for as close as you can get to factory spec wood. however I said factory spec, built like it was when new. This means you might have to shim or do what is necessary to get the body looking right. Now I never tore mine apart but here is what I've been told. It is better to cut the body away and rebuild the wood since originally Fisher built the wood frame and then slipped the body over it. My best advice to you is to get a Fisher body service manual because it shows how this is done. Other than that get the pictures from the guy above who already did it to his car. Either way it's not an easy task but the more you know the better you are tackling it. I think Rodman's kit is around 1500-2000 dollars. If I'm wrong someone please reply to this. Hope this helps you.

If you are going to cut the top sheetmetal there is a factory seam over the back door that might make a cleaner removal.It would be a little more work pulling body nails but it would be easier to finish. its all hard work and you have to be a real Chevy lover to do it.
woody

The problem of the door gapping away from the body at the lower aft corner is quite common and a popular fix is to install a turnbuckle rod diagonally across the inside of the door frame such that as the turnbuckle is tightened that corner is moved upward and in toward the door cutout of the body. This will correct quite large gaps if correctly done and is totally hidden once the door upholstery is installed.
Herb

I replaced all the wood in my 32 coupe. I bought the complete kit from jim rodman. we cut the Roof off about eight inches back from the windshield on each side and this was the best thing we done. It really made the job alot easier. the two doors on my coupe stuck out on the aft lower rear on each side. I was going to use turnbuckles, but jim rodman said that Replacing all the wood in both doors would reshape the curve back to when they were new. he said if I sent him the doors he would put the new wood in for me, this is what I did and that was one of the best things I done.when we put the doors back on the car they fit like a glove,perfect. the curve was just rightand replacing the door wood in my opinion is a complete must. jim rodman told me to do the wood replacing, but the one thing he stressed was to send the doors to him, because they are not a easy thing to replace. I COULD NOT BE HAPPIER WITH HIS WOOD KIT AND THE JOB HE DONE ON THE DOORS. ONE OTHER THING,I WOULD SUGGEST YOU USE GORILLA GLUE WHEN DOING THE WOOD. IT IS BY FAR THE BEST YOU CAN USE. THANKS DON BOLTZ

When I did the wood in my doors, I removed the outer skin and then copyed the wood as close as I could and the re assembled the wood without screwing or nailing it in the metal mounting bracket that hinges on the cab. Upon opening and closing the wood frame I found where the adjustment needed to be so that the door would close totally top and bottom. This is after the cab is completely straight. with all the clearances correct I then glued and screwed the frame of the door together then added the outer skin making sure that it closed at the proper fit. Now they both open and close perfect. Surprize Surprize, Sha-zam!. The door must fit the cab perfect, this give that really good look.

How do you get a hold of Jim Rodman? I have a 1930 Chevy Sedan that needs a lot of wood replaced.

Matt, you can reach Jim Rodman at the following:


Rodman's Auto Wood Restorations
Box 86 Wheeler St.
Hanna, In. 46340
Ph# 219-797-3775

I have bought parts for my 29 coach from Jim and the wood fit and finish is execllent.

Good luck and happy restoration.

Kirk

Hi guys, I have a 1931 5 window chev coupe and will have to repalace a lot of the wood. After reading all of this I'm a little nervous but will get at it as soon as I find out where to order a set of motor gaskets from and get the motor running. Jim Rodman sent me a parts list for wood and some pictures. That is very helpful. Also thank you Bill Barker.

Hey! Thank you Jerrygolf, you 'ol grease monkey!!

Glad that you're getting some use out of all of the bs that is posted here...!! :rolleyes:

Just keep asking, and we-all will keep on shoveling! :rolleyes: :eek:

My '31 coupe is slowly coming apart and I plan to strip it down to the frame and put in all new wood from Rodmans. This is question #1 out of about 1283 I'm going to ask so beware.Back in February Leo, Woody, and Chevy talked about cutting the roof about 8" back on a '32 from the windshield to make it easier to restore. Why was that because mine is already separated by the windshield or are the '31 & '32 different? #2, Took my gas tank off and is very rusty inside. Any good solution? #3, I live in central Minnesota and is there anyone around a couple hundred miles with a restored '31 5 wondow coupe I could look at? Bill, there's a good chance I'll get to help cater the food at the World Championship Golf Tournament in Seattle (Sammamish, I think) August 19th thru 25th so I hope to look you up if I get there. Will e-mail you later on this. Thanks, jerrygolf :)

Yes, 1931 is different than 1932. The 1932 roof line has to be cut about 8" back from the windshield, and the 1931 doesn't because of the different body construction.

On your gas tank, send it out and have it galvanized. Don't use the tank sealer or you will have problems with contaminated fuel down the road. :eek: :eek: :eek: :( :( :(

Thanks JYD, Now I'll have to find some place to take the gas tank and the price. :)
jerrygolf