VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND NEWER 1949-1954 eng. removal

How do I unhook the clutch pedal so I can pull eng. and trans.? On a 50 sedan. thanks Virg

Virg,
Unhook the spring, remove kotter key from rod in clutch pedal, remove rod from pedal. Then remove other end of rod from the clutch adjustment on the fork and then remove the adjusting rod from the fork by removing the end bolt. I just put mine all back together yesterday so it's fresh in my mind. Donn

Thanks Don, once I get that done and unhook the driveline I think I'm ready to pull it. I think I will have to remove the grill or the hood but those springs on the hood are really stiff...Virg

Virg,

If you remove the grill and the radiator support, you won't need to remove the hood. Hook your lift chain to the third head bolt from the rear of the engine on the right side and the fourth head bolt from the rear on the left side. Cinch your lift close to the engine and it will lift out perfectly balanced and you won't get close to the hood. Those lift points are per the shop manual. I just pulled my 216 last weekend on my 50 and it went real smooth. Of course I'm assuming that you're using an engine lift and not an A frame and hoist.

I'll second the motion to remove the rear mounts attached to the bell housing. They will definitely hold you up. I found that out the hard way.

I'm removing the trans. with the eng. so it will come out together. The eng. I have going in is a 54 that came with a PG so I will have to change some things, someone mentioned changing pilot bearing....Virg

does the splash pan come off with the grill? Virg

you do not need to remove the splash pan.

Virg,
I just put a 54 powerglide engine back in my 51, yes you need to install a pilot bearing. Also a good time to install a new clutch if you need one. On the two front mounts, I had to drill holes below the timing chain cover for mine. Once I got it in I had to move the gas pedal linkage on the block about 3-4 inches forward to line up with my carb. I'm still playing with it and no other problems so far. Good luck, Donn

Do I take out the 4 bolts where the driveline ataches to the trans.? also now would be a good time to do the master cylinder to I suppose....Virg

Yes this would be the time to do the master cylinder!

Virg,
You need to unscrew the speedo cable from trans along with removing the linkage arms so you don't bend them. You need to take the two bolts out of the bottom of the trans mount, then unscrew the coupling on the driveshaft behind the trans and it will all slide right out. It's best to prop up the drive shaft, if you don't it will fall down to the floor. It would then have to be lifted with a jack & you may lose oil all over the floor. Donn

I have the 4 bolts out where the front ujoint is but I can only get the collar to move back about 1/4 of an inch to get to the ujoint Virg

The four small bolts hold the bell cover , which in turn holds the bell joint forward, the bell joint must be slid back down the torque tube housing. There is a round collar screwed onto the rear of the bell next to the torque tube. You will need to clean all the grease dirt and rust off the small part of the torque tube, then loosen the seal nut by screwing it off the end of the bell housing and when it is really loose the bell will rotate and slide back toward the rear of the torque tube uncovering the U joint,(Back to where the torque tube tappers up to full size). You can then flatten the ends of the U joint trunnion bolts lock clips and remove the bolts with a 7/16 box end wrench and part the U joint. You will probably need to buy new bolt locking clips and maybe a new U joint trunnion bearing kit from one of our vendors like The Filling Station or Chevs of the Forties or Obsolete Chevrolet Parts Co., if your U joint is too loose.
Here is a link to Keith Hardy's website Old Car Manuals Online
1949-1953 Chevrolet passanger Car Shop Manual
1949 - 1953 Chevrolet online shop manual

Thanks I think I just about have it

Ok...got the front ujoint unhooked....while am doing this eng. swap...how about putting in an S10 rearend and have an open driveshaft? I heard one from a 4 WD is the one to use ...but why 4wd and not 2wd? Thanks in advance....Virg

A 4WD S-10 rear end is about 2 inch's wider than the 2WD, I have the 4WD rear end in my 41 and used one in a 40 Buick Century for a friend.

Got every thing unhooked cept the thing that has to do with the clutch...the adjusting rod I think it is...it's hanging up to the e brake bracket ...I can not get the nuts off (the double nut thing) it is really hard to turn..should it be that way??? Virg

Never mind..I cut the nut off...hope I never have to pull it again...Virg