VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND NEWER 1949-1954 block heater

My 51 came from Fargo ND and has a block heater installed. I would like to remove it. I have my engine out to replace leaky gaskets and paint. I am not rebuilding the motor (done several years back) I have no experience with freeze plugs, how should I handle this, just remove by unscrewing and plug, or remove all and replace with freeze plug? Also, how easy is it to remove (to paint) and reinstall the distributer with out having problems getting it running again?

thanks again for everyones help, pics attached below:

Remove it all and replace it with a 1 5/8" cup type freeze plug. Clean opening, coat edge of freeze plug with Permatex and drive in.
The removal of the distributor can be tricky. First note exact position of distributo in bloak Then note position of rotor. When removeing note rotor rotates a bit. When reinstalling rotor must be in exact position that it is in noew and te distributor must be all the way down (note how far down it is now. The problem comes in getting the tang on the distributor to line up with the oil pump and go all the way down. And don't turn over the engine while the dist. is removed.

anyone tell me the fair price for a 216 head complete with rocker arm shaft and rocker arms in used condition its a 50 head

...This can be a little tricky...depending on how used...I'd like it at $50 if I don't have to do much work...maybe they think it's worth $100...Or $150 , 'cause it's not all that used...! What's their refund policy if'n it's got cracks...?
See where this is headed...? Kevin

I would remove and replace all soft plugs while the motor is out. I put red loc-tite on mine,never had a leak!

Stripping the paint off your engine can be a real challenge, esp. if you used something like POR. Most engine shops either acid dip or bake it off after the block is stripped. You can use a chemical paint stripper but be careful not to get it on your gaskets, etc..Mask off areas well.

Be REAL careful removing the distributor. Check your instructions in the Shop Manual. You must bump the motor until #1 piston is at top dead center (rotor points to #1 plug wire) and #1 intact valve is closed BEFORE you pull the distributor. If you don't do this you'll be 180° out and the motor won't start. Get a friend to help if you can.

Distributor may be removed in any position, the trick is to be certain it is going BACK in to the same position. To put the engine at # 1 compression is good though, before removing.

Good point Bob.
My advice pertains to when or if you move the motor. Always a good idea to check #1 cylinder and top dead center.