VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 1926 Chev Overheating

I have had some good advice so far but getting these old cars can be a challenge.
I have a radiator that the local shops want to charge $400 just to open up. Anybody got some recommendations. It leaks very little, has had previous repairs, water flows OK, engine still overheats in 5 minutes at idle.
I have done the timing. Starts OK on retarded spark and smooths out at full advance.
Cylinder head had previous small leak at top of #3. I had welded but it still leaks. Welder said to try radiator stop leak. I don't think water is getting to #3 cylinder but cannot tell for sure. What should I do with cylinder head?

The newest thought. When engine was apart the camshaft showed considerable wear (curve in the lobe) I found another on online that had the fiber gear and looked like it had no wear. Problem was the diameter is slightly larger and will not go in to engine. I thought, maybe just try to use old one and if problems, either take it out and reground or have machine shop match it to fit old one. Could be a problem wear distributor gears turns. Could the engine be heating because of the Camshaft not opening enough to allow the heat out to exhaust?
The water pump had about 3/16 end play, I pressed the empeller on farther to remove end play. Did this do any good and do I need to replace or rebuild pump?

Any help would be appreciated.

BobK
Bob

If the crack was in the combustion chamber, it will blow some exhaust gasses into the water jacket and make it boil quick. If it was in the exhaust port it may still be possible to get gasses into the water from that side as well but not as likely as the pressure is much less at that point but there is still some pressure at that point as the gasses push out the exhaust pipe. If it were mine I suppose I would just find a good head with no cracks and see if that stops it. Cracked heads are famous for overheating problems on any engine. If it doesn't at least you will have an extra head for a spare. I have heard of some guys in the antique tractor world use a high temp epoxy and rub it into cracks and get them stopped but those guys usually don't run those ol tractors that long or work them hard.

Hi,
Did your waterpump have a backing plate?

I had very little success with repairing my cracked head.They usually crack where it is impossible to weld and like previously said all the others that have been removed from an engine is because of same reason.

Sometimes,although the radiator seems to have a good amount of water flowing through it,it could be partially blocked and the water is passing too quick to cool properly.Easy check is to feel the top and bottom hose.There should be a big difference in temp if it is cooling properly.

Last comment is engine timing will make a big difference if the spark has not been advanced.

The waterpump did not have a backing plate. Pretty much just a impeller that was about 1/8 to much play. Just pressed further on.
The cylinder head is what I feel is the major problem. I have order one from Gary Wallace, it was expensive but he had it tested and says it is OK. The previous owner of the head had bored bigger valve holes for bigger valves. Gary said to just have machine shop install sleeves. I think that will work. Gary has always been straight on on his deals.


Thanks
Bob

Bob,

You'll need the backing plate also. The Filling Station carries them, part number AF-188 for the 1926-1928 models.

Here's some discussion on 1930's waterpump backing plates and overheating:

https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php...e_Water_Pump_Backing_plate_pi#Post147197

Good luck and happy motoring,

Dan