Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#169151 03/27/10 11:36 AM
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Grease Monkey
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I'm considering using Evans NGP+ coolant in my '50 216 after finishing the rebuild. Has anyone used this? It's supposed to reduce corrosion and have better temperature properties. Just wondering if anyone had used it and if they had any problems such as leakage, water pump seal problems, etc?


1950 2Dr Styleline Deluxe
1950 3600 Flatbed
1970 Impala Convertible 454
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Did you look at your replies on chevy talk?



1951 Chevy Styleline Deluxe 2 door sedan / purchased from second owner 6-19-2000.
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IT SOUNDS like a good coolant for somr very special applications involveing high ultra-altitudes and pressurized cooling systems, however at almost $30 a gallon it seems to me to be overkill in a low or non-pressurized cooling system just in order to be confident that the coolant will be anti-corrosive. Consider the fact that these older cooling systems often require refilling or at least topping off. If I read Evans literature correctly it is used in a water free system, and refilling or topping off would require undiluted Evans coolant.

I have seen over many years that regular automotive coolant (prestone or Zerex) with anti-corrosive additives remains clean and good for 3 or 4 years in a good clean system when mixed 50-50 with distilled water, and give good anti freeze qualities. I always change out coolant every 3 or 4 years in my old Chevreolet that are infrequently used. More miles will often cause the coolants to pick up contaminates and need to be replaced every two years.


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MrMack #169169 03/27/10 03:11 PM
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You might want to read this article on coolant and corrosion. I've used this stuff for over ten years with no problems what so ever. computer
www.norosion.com

Last edited by p.k.; 03/27/10 03:12 PM.

p.k.

1956 BEL AIR 2 DOOR HARDTOP

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Grease Monkey
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Yep, I caught the replies on Chevy Talk.

Hey, sharp 51!
Tnx.


1950 2Dr Styleline Deluxe
1950 3600 Flatbed
1970 Impala Convertible 454
p.k. #169175 03/27/10 04:59 PM
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Grease Monkey
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Tnx to all for the responses.

I've always used 50/50 Prestone with good results, but I'm always looking for improvement if possible. The No-Rosion product certainly has some good endorsements. I was not aware of that product.



1950 2Dr Styleline Deluxe
1950 3600 Flatbed
1970 Impala Convertible 454
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I would stay away from the traditional (normally green or yellow) types of coolant, as the additives settle out. That is why they are recommended for annual changes. Especially true if not used regularly. Often these work their way into the water pump seal and wear out the shaft.

Most of the newer types specially the HOAT formulations that are recommended for 5 or 6 years have additives in solution, not suspension, so they do not settle out. Just don't mix the two. Most of these formulations are red, pink, or sometimes orange. Read the label.

The newer formulations only react to the metal where corrosion is about to happen, rather than painting the entire inside with anti-corrosive. This generally gives you about 8% better heat transfer. I have pictures and longer explanations on my site, but of course all in Spanish.

widman #169951 04/04/10 09:36 AM
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I suppose that you use the orange, pink and neon super-coolant mixtures in your Corvair!


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widman #170017 04/05/10 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by widman
I would stay away from the traditional (normally green or yellow) types of coolant, as the additives settle out. That is why they are recommended for annual changes. Especially true if not used regularly. Often these work their way into the water pump seal and wear out the shaft.

Most of the newer types specially the HOAT formulations that are recommended for 5 or 6 years have additives in solution, not suspension, so they do not settle out. Just don't mix the two. Most of these formulations are red, pink, or sometimes orange. Read the label.

The newer formulations only react to the metal where corrosion is about to happen, rather than painting the entire inside with anti-corrosive. This generally gives you about 8% better heat transfer. I have pictures and longer explanations on my site, but of course all in Spanish.

We have a club member with a 76 Ford pickup, it still has the original antifreeze in it, (or what may be left) he just adds an antirust to it each year and tops it off with a 50/50 mix. talk

glyn #170082 04/05/10 08:31 PM
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Having spend several year in the Coolants development of a large Chemical company (at the time the second largest supplier of coolants) I find the claims of the coolant suppliers interesting. It is common for automotive chemical suppliers to exaggerate claims, use the testimonials of people with unknown credentials and invent science. They also cite anecdoteal evidence to support their claims.

Modern antifreeze/coolants (particularly the extended life type) were developed for cooling systems containing ferrous metals and aluminum. It takes different inhibitors (additives) to protect the cooling systems of our old Chevrolets which have primarily iron, copper and lead in the cooling systems.

You can do what you want and also believe what you want. I use the yellow/green (standard) antifreeze in all my old Chevys. I occasionally add a compatible corrosion inhibitor and only drain infrequently.


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Chipper #170092 04/05/10 10:03 PM
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I do the same and have not had a problem in the last 40 years.


Gene Schneider
Chipper #170174 04/06/10 07:30 PM
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What kind of corrosion inhibitor?
Thanks.


Dean 50 - VCCA #44675
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Grease Monkey
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1. Has anyone ever added Red Line water wetter to try to lower coolant temps. I used it in my L-82 corvette and it took the temps from 205-210 down to 190-195 on the temp gage. Would it work on these older engines? Summer is coming and 90-100+ degree days will be here soon.

2. Is there a factory overlow canister for coolant. I don't want to bolt on a junkie plastic aftermarket to keep the drips off the floor.

Thanks.


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