Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 15
squeaky Offline OP
Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 15
I have started restoring my car and started with the easy stuff like replacing the fuel pump, replacing the carb with the correct one and getting the engine to run. Now I am working on the brakes. I started with the left front and have removed the shoes. So here is my dumb question. The backing plate is coated with some dirt and a little surface rust so it needs to be cleaned. I plan to wire brush it to remove the dirt. After I clean it up what do I put on it? Is there something that would neutralize the remaining rust? After cleaning would it be wise to spray some paint on it to keep it from rusting further?

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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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Tech Advisor
ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863
Hi There and welcome to Chevy Chatter II!

Your best bet would be to remove all of the parts on the backing plate and then remove the backing plate. You can then bead blast the backing plate and paint it a dull gloss black. Then reassemble.

laugh wink beer2


The Mangy Old Mutt

"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 15
squeaky Offline OP
Grease Monkey
OP Offline
Grease Monkey
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 15
Thanks for your reply to my question.
I was thinking of not having to take off too many parts to replace the brake shoes. I see your point in removing the flange plate I would have to remove and inspect the lever, cable, cable housing and cam shaft. I hesitate to remove too many parts since after 80 years I could damage the parts in trying to remove them.
In order to do a through brake job maybe these parts should be checked over although they seem to work OK. After removing the shoes I thought I would just try to remove the brake shoe anchor plate to see how it goes. There are four 5/8" nuts holding it on. Behind each nut is a knurled lock washer. I tried loosening one of the nuts and it broke free but the lock washer keeps the nut from turning more than a half turn. If I turn any further it seems like I would break the lock washer. Any thoughts on this?


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