VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 adjusting 569S metering rod

I have just rebuilt my Carter 569S carb with the kit from the Filling Station.Instructions refer to a guage for adjusting the metering rod which I do not have.The engine runs good but maybe it could be better if the rod was properly adjusted. Should I be concerned, and if so is this guage available or is there another way? :confused:

The correct metering rod gauge is a T109-25. Fifty years ago the correct metering rod gauges used to come in the major rebuild kits.

The guage checks the position of the metering rod and the throttle valve So they are in the correct relation to one another.The adjustment is made by bending (changing the length) of the rod that runs pump arm pivot (under tin cover) down to the throttle plate lever.If you are using the old metering rod and the connector rod length has not been altered your adjustment should not be disturbed and if it was "correct" before overhauling will be correct now.....how ever if a gauge is available it is a good idea to check the setting.If off could affect gas milage slightly-or performance -by making the mixture slightly rich or lean under some throttle positions.

This carb was bought used and there is no way of knowing how many times it has been rebuilt. Without the guage is there any way of checking the adjustment? (ie, should the rod be fully seated or raised, when the throttle valve is closed).

There is no way to adjust it without the gauge.

Though it is best to use the gauge 109-15 or T-109-25 it can be done with a gauge normally included in the repair kits. Or you can measure from the main jet center to pin on the pump arm at 2.79".

I didn't have a gauge when I rebuilt my carburetor, but I figured out a way to get it very close. You do need to check this for the engine to run correctly. Firstly, the metering rod is stepped to allow a different amount of fuel to be delivered to the main fuel circuit based on the 7/8 open to full throttle position. The step in the metering rod controls this. It is important that the step is "timed" correctly based on throttle position. What you will need to do is 1. get the proper gauge (and we already know how hard they are to find) or 2. go to a hobby shop that sells radio contol model airplane hardware. They have these things called wheel collars that are nothing more than round metal collars in various sizes with a set screw in them. What you will need is a collar that your metering rod will fit into. What I did was put a very small piece of masking tape around the metering rod to protect it from being marked by the set screw. Buy the collar that the metering rod with a small amount of protective tape will just fit into (I think it was 1/16th") -just take your metering rod with you and you'll be able to tell. Anyway, using the collar snuggly fitted on the metering rod, adjust the location of the collar such that the step in the metering rod is just starting to come out of the top of the main jet. What I mean is position the collar on the metering rod near the step, snug up the set screw and put the metering rod into the main jet without the jet installed in the carb. (By the way, the metering rod needs to be installed through the cover plate) Using trial and error and looking at the main jet from the top, adjust the collar and look inside the jet until you get the step position of the rod to just clear the transition region of the main jet orfice straight bore to the beginning of the chamfer. You'll see what I mean when you look at it. Once you are happy with this setting, leave the collar on the metering rod and assemble the main jet in the carb. Remember, when you do this the metering rod needs to be assembled through the top cover. Place the top cover with the metering rod on the carburetor with the gasket in place and tighten the screws. Please notice the accel. pump rod (link) has not been installed yet. Now position the throttle plate at 7/8 throttle. The accel. pump rod should be adjusted to fit in the holes without having to move anything. Once you're happy with your adjustment, take the cover back off and remove the collar and tape from the metering rod. Now put the cover back on and finish your rebuild.
This worked for me and I hope it helps.
Jim

Why not just cut a piece of solid wire, light cardboard, plastic, wood or other scrap material that will fit through the hole in the float cover. A small taper on the end will help locate and fit into the taper on the jet. It is not necessary but may help. Then measure 2.79" (just an rch longer than a 2 3/4" length) from the part of your wire (or other material) that lines up with the top of the main jet and make a line, notch or cut to length. When the line, notch or end is equal to the bottom of the pivot that the metering rod slides onto and the throttle plate is fully closed you have the linkage rod properly adjusted.

It is not necessary to make it more difficult. Besides it cost me too much to fire up old Bessy and go to town. Not to speak of the time searching for the hobby shop that does not exist within 50 miles from my place. But I do have a few pieces of romex that can yield a short piece of nice shiny wire.

Chipper and JIMK- Thank you for the technical advice. With a spare w-1 in hand it wasn't hard to understand. Chipper, I checked out a spare w-1 using your method with a wire and it was right on. The rebuilt 569 is on the car and it is running well. It's not worth the effort to take it off and check it out just to find out everything is ok. Next time I'll know.

Rwolf, it is a lot more fun working on something that you understand how it works, isn't it,

now for this dadblamed hunk of plastic and tenny little wires and tenncy little thing-a-may-bobs called a computer, I don't think there is any thing big enough for me to see how it works, electrons and all.....

Every good mechanic should have a computer geek for a son-in-law.( He may be good at computers but doesn't know a carbureator from a piston)