VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 Valves sticking

On my 1930, 194 engine... the valves and guides are not being lubed. What could be the problem? The motor has been rebuilt and has low hours. Any help would be appreciated.

The valves and guides will survive with little or no oil.....The main function of the oil coming "upstairs" is to oil the rocker arms and shafts and push rod ball sockets.
Does the oil pressure gauge show any reading? The loop oil pipe between the rocker arm shafts should have some oil spilling out of the end of the pipe and some oil should be seen dripping from the rocker arms.
On a 1930 the rocker arm oil feed line can be seen on the lower left side of the engine. The line fastens to the oil distributor valve, comes out of the top of the valve (behind the oil filler tube)...then the line passed between #3 and #4 cylinder in the center of the block. From there it enters the push rod compartment, travels up thru the head and fastens to the oil connector that is between the rocker arm shafts.
If no oil is coming up the line (may take a minute or so when engine is started cold) there is a problem. I would begin by disconnecting or at least loosening the fitting on the top of the oil dist. valve on the left side. Then start the engine...in short order oil should be pumping out of the loose fitting. If no oil is present, the cars has at least 3 pounds of oil pressure I would suspect there is something amiss in the oil distributor valve. If oil pumps out of the loose fitting but does not get up to the rocker arms the line is pinched, plugged or?

Chevynut, I have got 15 pounds of oil pressure cold and the rocker arm shafts are oiling normal. The value and guide are DRY to the point where the value is showing rust on the stem and sticking at times enough to bend a push rod. Have you ever seen this? Thanks!

Some oil should find its way to the left side of the push rod or oil should be just thrown around and get to that area at higher engine speeds. Are the shafts and or the bushings in the rocker arms worn and the oil is not coming out of the hole on top of the rocker arm?

Chevynut, the shafts and the bushings are new, but I'll check the hole on top of the rocker arm it may be blocked. Thanks for the help!

Do the holes in the new bushings line up with the oil holes in the rocker arms correctly?

Chevynut, I looked at the rocker arms and cannot find the hole you are referring to. Can you tell me where the hole is located? Thanks!

OK, that goes back to a discussion from some time back. Most 1929 and 1930 owners said they did not have the oiling hole on top of the rocker arm. I think if it were my cars I would drill the holes. But first I would remove a rocker arm and see if the oil grove leading up to the top of the bushing is present.

On the 1930 engine the push rod sockets are lubricated through felt oil wicks that come out the back of the rocker arms.

Dawg, I have the oil wicks but the problem is the valve is trying to seize in the guide from lack of oil. Have you ever seen this? Thanks!

I have seen this happen on vehicles that have sat for awhile, but not while the vehicle is running. Also, it is normal for the oil pressure to be 25 to 30 pounds at a cold start, but usually not 15 pounds. What is your oil pressure reading when the oil is hot at idle?

Dawg, My oil pressure is around 10 psi hot. I removed the oil pan last fall and checked bearing and also the oil pump. The bearing were like new and the pump vanes and body look perfect.I rebuilt the motor years ago but it never has been driven until last summer.All the bearings were new and clearances were right.The rocker shafts and bushings are also new and seem to be oiling normal.I did remove the valve cover and run the engine to see if the rocker were getting oil.The oil is not making it's way over to the valve guide.Should I just remove the valve cover and add a drop or two to the guides occasionally or is this a crazy thought and I have a problem that should be addressed. Thanks,Stan

Stan.

Question. When eng rebuild, were there new valves and guides put in or reuse old valves with guides knurled?? As Gene stated, should bo ok with very little oil splashed around. If knurled as I asked, could guides be too tight for valves, especially on fresh rebuild with low hours on it. Have had this happen on a couple rebuilds I did years ago. I can explain what I did with same concern on my 31 if you want.

Jim.

Jim, I had the head rebuilt at a machine shop but I did provide new valves,guides and springs. I removed the old guides before I took the head in so I know the new parts were installed. There could still be a problem with clearance.I did not check the clearance on the valve to guide after the rebuild.I would still think that some oil would be present on the valves and guides after driving it every weekend last summer. The valves actually have some rust on the stems. The motor runs sweet so I think the guides are still OK but I think without some oil the valves will seize soon.

If you have been just running the engine from time to time and not actually driving the car the valve stems will rust. This is caused by condensation forming under the valve cover due to the engine not being fully warmed up - and - when the cars is not moving at speed the crankcase vent system is not working and the condensation is not being drawn out of the engine. Plus at a higher engine speed more oil and oil mist will get over to the valves.
If car is not being driven I would suggest hand oiling from time to time. Also would suggest not starting the engine unless necessary in colder weather and when it is started try to drive the car at speed for 10 miles or so at a time.

Thanks for your input,I have been driving the car for the last year but before that the engine was only started from time to time.I'll try hand oiling the guides and see what happens.Thanks again! Stan

The valve train oiling system on the 1930 engine is not as "advanced" as the oiling system on later engines due to the oil being routed to the oil wicks in the back bottom of the rocker arms. Since there is no oil hole on the top of the rocker arms the oil does not capillary freely to the valve stems like it does on the later engines with the oil hole on top of the rocker arms.

The valve stems on the 1930 engine are oiled more by a "mist" when driving the car constantly, so if you oil the valve stems by hand and then drive the car regularly you shouldn't have any problems.