Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Arend #162236 01/17/10 11:36 AM
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 298
Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 298
Thanks guys.I can handle it now. Andy.

Filling Station - Chevrolet & GMC Reproduction Parts


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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 298
Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
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Posts: 298
Was the original wood painted or sealed or ?

Joined: Nov 2001
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ChatMaster - 15,000
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ChatMaster - 15,000
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If the wood was part of the outside surface it was painted. Wood inside of sheet metal had a perservative. I suspect it was a copper chromate or similar because of the blue-green cast of the wood pieces.


How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1
Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1
Not 490 but my 2 cents re woodwork. Im currently in the process of making new wood frames for my 1925 roadster and tourer, am making two of everything as I go and plan to make drawings of each piece. This because for many years this has been an obstacle to mine and others restoration projects here. I have finally accumulated patterns for both albeit borer ridden and dry rot damaged.

The most important parts to have for patterns are the main chassis runners from which everything else attaches. without these it is most difficult to reconstruct. Unfortunatley these are the parts that rot away first. Most verticle timbers are relatively simple to replicate. Take measurements off restored cars esp distance between A,B & C posts top and bottom.

Im no cabinet maker but with a few esential tools its not that difficult to replicate most pieces. Roadster is simple, not too many multiple curves, tourer corners of front and back seat are more difficult but it is possible to take short cuts e.g laminting. A good bandsaw, table saw and edge sander are must haves.

re wood types - I have accumulated many patterns both imported and local. Many USA wood species evident and late local assembled 26 used local kauri timber which I have used in the form of demolition timber from a 120 year old building. This way I know it is stable and dry. Our national VVC provides guidlines re what timbers are suitable for frame construction , screws, joints, adhesives etc.

If restoration was simple everyone would be doing it, I love the challenge. Learn some new skills and give it a go.

Kume #164709 02/08/10 10:48 AM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 31
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 31
Hi Jim.
I'm working on a 1920 Touring and I have the sheet metal off the body. Your timing is a little late as I had all the wood pieces off last year. Let me know what you need and I can try to make patterns out of 1/8 plywood and take pictures ect.I have an unheated garage so progress is slow in the winter. You can email me at kjsoldcar@myfairpoint.net
Take care!
Kevin S.

490k #165249 02/13/10 08:16 AM
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 199
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 199
Thanks Kevin,
I sent you an email

Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 199
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Posts: 199
Just an update for all who are interested. Kevin S.(490K) has been sending me pictures of his 490 touring without any sheet metal. From the pictures it looks fairly simple to make most of the wood parts. I'm looking forward to taking the pictures with his measurements and trying to replicate pieces. If I can reproduce usable parts from what he provides me I think that would be a huge step forward. I can then make drawings that can be used as a starting point for anyone. The only concern I have is Kevin's car is a 1920 and mine is a 1922. I don't know what the differences may be.

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I think the body to both 20 and 22 Touring would be the same. The brake/clutch system on the 22 model did change as the left pedal went from both brake and clutch, to only clutch.

chevy


Solan G, # 32797

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