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![[Linked Image from inlinethumb25.webshots.com]](http://inlinethumb25.webshots.com/42904/2251213020029539674S600x600Q85.jpg) This is supposed to be a wiring harness for a 38 chevy coupe.I said SUPPOSED !! The seller gave me a bunch of 38 stuff with the car. I couldn't promise you that this is the correct harness. The wiring was terrible when I first got the car. Most of it has been replaced with modern wiring and everything is fused thru a fuseblock. It's been a slow process but worth it. If anyone needs this harness, make me a offer. Remember the part about it is SUPPOSE to be a 38 chevy harness.
Last edited by wawuzit; 01/30/10 05:31 PM.
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You will have to measure it out to see if it fits your 38 coupe.
The right hand lower side is the instrument cluster, working up and anti clockwise , the wires without the cloth covering is fed up through the roof pillar and down the tail and stop lights. The remaining cloth covered wires are then fed through the firewall into the engine bay, and then around to the headlights, generator and voltage regulator, and the horn
JACK
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To me it looks as if it would be a 1938 harness. If its kinda stiff it could be an old stock WiryJoe brand replacement harness and they were "good". I would keep it.
Gene Schneider
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Just looking and not actually trying to fit it in place, it looks like it is the correct harness. But, like you said someone would have to give it the fit test. If its short on any wire it would ruin the project if you are into 100% correctness.
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It's very stiff. I guess it could be a selling point if someone wanted to be 100% correct in the restoration. If someone needs it, I'd let it go for a reasonable offer.
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What kind of wiring did you put in instead. If they are not like these and are some plastic coated stuff, then i would take those out and replace them with these. I think Jack got the layout right. And, agree with Gene that the Wirey Joe's are hard to beat. I didn't see any connection for the dimmer switch or brake light. But, I don't know much about 38s or any other years for that matter.
I'll start the bidding at $10.00 (gotta start somewhere). Set a time limit and let's see who the wants them most.
Good luck, Charlie
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The old harness was failing apart. I now have a fuse block with everything fused, verses a ONE fuse system. I know this isn't the forum to try and convince you about not being 100% correct but this car is never going to be 100% correct. I'm just trying to get it safe and roadworthy and dependable. I want it to look orginal and be mainly correct, but I won't lose any sleep if it's not 100% correct. I feel safer and better off knowing everything has modern wiring and won't catch on fire. I've got the new rear seals so grease won't be getting on the shoes. I've got a new draglink to replace the old one ( very dangerous looking ). The headlights are at least better than stock. Do you see what I mean? I love looking at 100% correct cars but I want to be able to drive this old car someday at least for a few short afternoon trips. I'll hide the new rainbow colored wiring with sheathing, don't tell anyone it's not correct.
Last edited by wawuzit; 01/30/10 06:59 PM.
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Backyard Mechanic
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I was wondering if this harness, would work on a 37 MD too? Any ideas? Thanks. ____________________________ Joe's 37
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I would be interested if we can confirm it will work in a 1937 Master Coupe (GB).
Rusty
VCCA #44680
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Just looking at a pile of wires on the floor, it is hard to tell, but it sure looks a lot like what I had when I started with the wiring harness on my car.
I "think" I see the very short wires that locked my harness into position. Those were the wires for the brake light switch and they were near the mid point on the harness when it was all stretched out.
If you start in the lower right of the photo, that mess of plugs and connectors goes behind the dash, follow that around your loop and see if you have connectors on a short lead coming out from the main harness. These are the wires for the dimmer switch, then further down are the wires for the brake light switch. The mass of wires on the left side of the photo goes into the engine compartment and feed the headlights, horn and generator. The wires near the top of the picture that are not in the black protective sheath go to the rear of the car and are for the tail lights, stop lights and gas tank. At least that how it was on the harness on my car. Do you have numbered tags on each end of the wires?
A harness like this is very expensive, about $450. You should consider making the effort to figure it out and get it installed in the car. I can tell you from personal experience, it is much easier that it appears when you first start.
Rich
1937 Master Deluxe 4-door Sport Sedan Restoration project 99% complete May never get to 100%
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Rich, The reason I asked, is because I have one that looks like this one. I got it at the Iola swap meet up here one summer, along time ago. The box it came in, had Wirey Joe on it. Now, the box has long since rotted away, but on the end flap, you can just barely make out 1938. But, it looks like another year was printed on it before 1938! Maybe, 1937-1938?? I understood what your saying in your last post about locking it in. But, I was wondering if someone out there, may have a copy of the old installation directions with the color coding, for the color tracers in the wires? Would sure help things along. Thanks, ________________________________ Joes 37
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Joe,
I finally did find the single sheet of instructions for mine. And mine was correct for my car. I can scan the instruction sheet and send it to you if you think it may be of any help.
But as I said before, this was a much easier task than it appeared to be when I started. The location of all wiring is very straight forward with the exception of the wires that have to be landed under the dash. There, the numbers were a big help, but once again, the length of the wires just about preclude putting them in the wrong place (for the most part.)
And, I had no option. A previous had removed every wire from the car. I HAD to install the new harness.
Rich
1937 Master Deluxe 4-door Sport Sedan Restoration project 99% complete May never get to 100%
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The 1937 and 1938 harness is quite different. The 1938 harness has the voltage control wires, light switch had resistor in 1937, and I believe the right head light wires ran under the radiator in 1937. May be some other changes that I can not think of. The 1938 would work on a 1937 but some modifications would be necessary. On the plus side the wiryJoe had the same wire codes and colors as the original, not the bright colors like the modern expensive replacements. The WiryJoe just covered under dash and most under hood wires. Yes, they are simple to install.
Gene Schneider
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Gene,
You are correct about the routing of the right headlight wires going down in front (not quite under) the radiator. There are metal retainer clips that hold the harness in place.
Rich
1937 Master Deluxe 4-door Sport Sedan Restoration project 99% complete May never get to 100%
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Thanks Rich & Gene, your info is always helpful. Rich, I would appreciate a copy of that installation sheet. There could be a chance that what I have might be for a 37, and that sheet may prove it one way or another. Ive replaced all of the old frayed, mouse eaten wires years ago with 14 gauge and fuses. But would put in this harness if it is the right one.Thanks agin, ___________________________________ Joes 37
Last edited by Joe's 37; 01/31/10 07:07 PM.
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Joe,
Send your email address to ROKuberski at MSN dot COM. I have it scanned and ready for you. Even if my instructions are not for your harness, they should give enough information to determine if you have all of the wires required.
Rich
PS - Have you got your G&D? That's my car on the cover.
1937 Master Deluxe 4-door Sport Sedan Restoration project 99% complete May never get to 100%
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Joe,
Check your in box.
Rich
1937 Master Deluxe 4-door Sport Sedan Restoration project 99% complete May never get to 100%
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