Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#16295 01/01/06 03:13 PM
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I need some advice on stopping a radiator leak in my 29. The leak is about 5 inches from the top and looks to be small. I believe it's a fairly new radiator as most everything on this car has been restored or replaced to near original condition prior to my ownership.

I haven't had any experience in fixing a leak so any advice will be appreciated.

What repair products would you recommend? OR should I take it out and have it repaired?


Wayne


29 Coach, 88 Camaro
Filling Station - Chevrolet & GMC Reproduction Parts


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#16296 01/01/06 11:31 PM
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The jar of Bars Leak with the silver colored stuff has worked for me in the past.


How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
#16297 01/02/06 09:53 AM
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Thanks Chipper for the advice, I'll check it out.

Does anyone else have any other remedies? OR suggestions?

Thanks


Wayne


29 Coach, 88 Camaro
#16298 01/02/06 08:54 PM
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I would take it out and have it properly repaired and would only use a stop leak product on on a car I had to drive, such as to complete a tour or to an only car in order to get to work.

#16299 01/02/06 09:30 PM
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Thanks for the reply.

Before I remove the radiator I'd like to try a quick fix to see if it will work OK.

Has anyone ever used "J B Weld" to repair a radiator?


Wayne


29 Coach, 88 Camaro
#16300 01/02/06 11:09 PM
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Do you have experience with using solder? If you can get a iron to the area this would be a good method of repair.Be sure to drain the system before repair if you are using solder.Just my two cents.Hope this might help.Stan

#16301 01/03/06 01:07 AM
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Just remember, if you try a quick fix with JB Weld or home made solder job, when you finally take the radiator off and down to the radiator shop old Raddy Mann may say" WowEE! You ruined the core I am thinking $$$$$$$$!!!! if I can even find one $$$$$$$$$!!!!"


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#16302 01/03/06 01:29 AM
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I used black RTV silicone on my '31 pu before I got a new core from the filling station. It worked well for a quick fix to an old core. I still carry a small tube for emergency repairs if needed. Dan


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#16303 01/03/06 11:13 AM
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A short course in radiator leak repairs.

Soldering old cores is extremely difficult to do correctly. Oxidation of the solder, different blends (melting point) for tanks and cores, dirt/grease/oil, paint, corrosion products inside all contribute to the problems in obtaining a good repair. Therefore your chance of successful soldering is nearly zero. As Mack wrote $$$$$$$$.

Repairs from the outside may work if you can get to the leak and clean the area to be repaired. Epoxy, silicone can work very well and last for years.

Plugging the hole from the inside can also work for years. Reducing cooling efficiency in a core that may already reduced is the major problem. Either restricting internal passages or coating the surfaces will reduce cooling particularly if a non-conductive material is used. Many types of finely ground stuff has (and still is) been used. Ground ginger root is very effective in sealing but not so good with cooling.

It is always best to have a new, clean radiator but sometimes the wallet can't stand it.


How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
#16304 01/03/06 08:14 PM
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Thanks to all for your advice, I'm not sure which one I will choose, will have to give it more thought.

Chipper, if I decide to go the epoxy or silicone route what brands do you recommend?

Thanks again.


Wayne


29 Coach, 88 Camaro
#16305 01/03/06 11:07 PM
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It doesn't cost all that much to have the radiator fixed at a shop. They will also boil iyt out and fix any other leaks there are.I went this route and lengthened the life of my radiator a few years till i can afford to have it recored.


Mark


These ain't for old guys any more.

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