Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#1623 06/24/02 01:01 PM
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 428
Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 428
Here's one that may also be useful to other relatively new owners that are still picking up on doing diagnostics. It concerns checking for broken or weak valve springs.

The Chevy-Six manual shows a flathead screwdriver inserted into the spring, but doesn't explain WHAT you're supposed to do then or WHAT to feel or look for. It just says "A handy method for checking springs, Figure 71C." God bless them old authors - I suppose it was just common sense to them.

What is it that you're supposed to do or look for?

:confused: ES

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#1624 06/24/02 04:40 PM
Joined: Nov 2001
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Former ChatMaster
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You're trying to find out if the springs exert 83.45 pounds of tension..... :confused: :eek: :confused:

This is a really good question. I think that some of my performance issues over the years has been due to "too strong" of springs that were added in the early 70's.

Seems to me someone a while back said that 1931 springs should be about 80-85 lbs. Also, I think that most "modern" replacements are over 100 lbs.... personally, it would seem to me that too strong of springs are just as bad as too weak of springs.

Can anybody comment on this? :rolleyes:


Bill Barker
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#1625 06/24/02 11:57 PM
Joined: Dec 2001
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Too strong a spring will put undue force on the rockers, pushrods and cam lobes, the stronger springs are needed on engines that wrap up (higher Rpms,) also they close valves faster and more completely the new models have higher compression and chamber pressures that force the valve stems to ride very closely in the guides and seals. the old systems
are usually looser,unless they are carboned up. or not getting lubed properly, at least that is my reasoning, take it for what you think it is worth.


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