VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 Starting my 29 after 5 years

I have just purchased my 29 which is nearly 100% restored. I am unable to find out much information on the restoration other than most everything was rebuilt or replaced. I was told it had been driven about 100 miles after the restoration. I need a checklist on what to do before I try to start this up. Also what type of grease do I use on all those fittings. Need all the advice I can get, this is my 1st antique car. Thanks for the help.

Wayne,
First you should purchase a reprint of the owners manual and repair manual. The Filling Station or other reprint literature dealers have copies.

The steps have been reviewed on this site before. You can search for them. I would recommend several searches using different terms or variations so you maximize your probability of finding what you search for.

I will list several important points. First, though I personally do not follow these in all occasions, it is best to remove and replace the fluids. That will insure the proper fluids are used. Unfortunately winter is the worst time to drain fluids as they are more viscous and drain less completely. I try to determine the condition of the engine by removing the valve cover and dip stick. If there is sludge on the head then you can be sure that there is much more in the oil pan and the pan should be removed prior to trying to start the engine. Cleaning the pan and inspecting the bottom side of the engine is a good idea.

However if the head is clean and the oil on the dip stick also clean then starting might be ok. Running a short time will warm the oil and make draining faster and more complete.

It is extremely critical to make sure that the engine is free and none of the valves stuck. With the valve cover removed slowly roll the engine over. It can be done in many ways. A hand starting crank, rolling forward or back with the transmission in gear, a lever on the teeth of the flywheel. Using the fan to turn the engine will sometimes work but can damage the fan if not done carefully. Using the starter is the last option as control is minimal.

Once you are satisfied that no major damage has or will be done then check the fluid levels, hand lubricate the valve train with liberal amount of oil, a couple of drops in the cups on the generator, starter, water pump. Lubricate the distributor shaft and water pump with the grease cups. I would suggest disconnecting the line from the tank to the fuel pump as the gas in the tank may be BAD. A temporary fuel supply can be hooked up. Be careful with the highly flammable gas. And finally check the battery and cables to make sure they are clean and in good condition.

When starting for the first time I normally leave the ignition off and crank over several times to attempt to verify that the oil pump is pumping and to lubricate engine parts prior to starting. When you see any oil flow at the valve train you can be sure that the pump is working and filling the pockets that lube the cam and crankshafts.

If everything is still ok. Then turn on the ignition manually checking it to make sure you have sparking at the points. If you place the end of the coil wire near a ground then you should see a spark when the points are opened and closed. That checks the coil, condensor and wires.

Use a short squirt of carburetor cleaner (CC) into the throat of the carburetor and see if the engine will fire. The is no need to have a gas line hooked up yet. If it will fire, then hook up the gas, a short squirt of CC and try to start again. Use the choke initially as the carb needs to fill with gas before the engine will run continuously. You may need to repeat that step a few times until the carburetor bowl fills with gas. CAUTION: It is common for the carburetor needle/seat to be stuck. It could be stuck either open or closed. If the engine will not start and run on its own after a few squirts of CC then you will likely need to clean the carburetor. CAUTION: If gas runs out of the carburetor at any time STOP and fix the carb.

When the manuals call for heavy oil it is 600W or SAE 160. An alternate is 90W-140 or you can buy the 600W from the Filling Station and Model A parts dealers.

Good luck

What month would I expect to see this last post in the G&D?

Wayne:
Chipper covered many excellent points and leaves very little to be added. My two cents of additional advice would be to remove the spark plugs prior to turning the engine over by hand (make a note of plug wire location and firing order first!). This eliminates the resistance of cylinder compression and also affords you the opportunity to add a few drops...maybe a teaspoon or two...of thin oil such as Marvel Mystery Oil directly into the cylinders. This will help prevent any scoring of the cylinder walls and also lubricate the rings. The oil will burn off quickly after the engine fires up.
Good luck getting her back on the road!

Coach

Thanks Chipper and Coachhill for the great advice. I will probably have a few dozen more questions before this thing gets fired up. Thanks again.

Wayne:
Last October, I got my 30 Sport Coupe running after 12 years of storage. I did all of the items that have been recommended in the above postings and had no problems.

I also drained the fuel tank and visually inspected it for sediment and rust. I found considerable fuel discoloration but no rust or sediment. I then disconnected and flushed the fuel lines with compressed air.

I am a firm believer of oiling the valve rocker assembly, pushrods, valve guides and cylinder walls before turning anything. I turned my engine with the hand crank, and the plugs removed. I continued to oil as I turned it. When I felt everything was thoroughly lubed, I reconnected the fuel line between the tank and pump. I then checked for fuel flow on the pump's output side by slowly turning with the hand crank. I did not have fuel flow as the pump check valves were stuck closed from varnish in the old fuel. Fuel pump disassembly and cleaning is simple. After finding varnish in the pump, I proceeded to clean the carburetor and install a rebuild kit. The carburetor was heavily gummed varnished. If you believe your fuel system is clean, I would still remove the carburetor float bowl and check the inside for varnish and gum. If you find it, don't waste your time, clean the fuel system.

Another suggestion; remove the distributor cap and check the inside for corrosion. If you find corrosion, this is evidence that there has been condensation in the distributor. It would then be a good idea to service the distributor and points.

My car started as soon as the fuel bowl filled and has run well since.

Good luck.

John

Thanks John for your advice.

Ray,
Guess I got carried away. Did not think about sending to the G&D but maybe several contributors could collaborate to write an article. The "author" could be "contributed by the VCCA Chatmasters". It might help members get more involved. Just a thought on this beautiful Sunday morning.