Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#161602 01/10/10 07:38 PM
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Here is a link to several pictures I took of my 1937 Chevrolet Master DeLuxe Business Coupe; her name is Maxine. I'd like to encourage any and all comments on originality/condition or on anything else you can think of. I know you guys can be pretty brutal/meticulous sometimes: bring it! I know she needs a good cleaning to get the pollen from last fall off, but I'm waiting until it gets above freezing.

Also, assuming you had the funds, what would YOU pay for her, and what do you think she should bring in an auction?

http://picasaweb.google.com/breinecke/Maxine?feat=directlink


-Brendyn

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I'd be proud to own her . Looks like someone spent a lot of hours restoring this beauty.

BTW..In the link look how close the wiring is to the clutch pedal movement. The reason I mention this is my old 38 clutch pedal got tangled up in that wiring. Sparks went flying!. Just a thought.

http://picasaweb.google.com/breinecke/Maxine?feat=directlink#5425237777884812962

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I'll take a look at it. Thanks!


-Brendyn

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Very nice car! Ok you asked for it. Not the correct floor mat, should not have a shifter boot, missing radio face plate, not the correct coil missing eletro lock cable not the correct ignition switch plug wires are wrong looks to be the wrong engine color but could be just my monitor color. radio and choke knobs are wrong.....But man I would love to have this car!

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Do I have the correct carburetor? When I got a rebuild kit for it, the guy at the counter said it was for a 50's Ford.


-Brendyn

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Well I guess I won't address any more comments to "Maxine," just about Maxine.

The car looks great. You previously stated you wanted a driver not a show car. It looks like you are successful in this regard. Certainly, there are some minor issues to be taken care of, but the car looks very fine to me.

I too wanted a driver, not a show car. That being said, mine is very close to original. Just a few upgrades for safety and convenience.

As to value, that’s a tough one. When the article on my car comes out, you will see that I have invested $15k in my car. I did most of the work myself and I benefited from the work of previous owners. As to value, I think my car is worth in the $15K … $20K range. I am not sure where your car would fall, but perhaps it would be a little more than mine. I don't think the 4 door sedans are as desireable as some of the other body styles. I wanted a sedan so I could take others with me for a ride.

I did convince my wife that this is a free car. It should always be worth at least what I have invested in it and I get to drive it all the time. Just today, I put over 100 miles on it and we did not really do that much driving. Just a few errands and a trip to a museum.

Rich


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Can't tell for sure but looks like a Carter YF carburetor which is a replacement for the original Carter W-1.


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Very nice car! I too have a few skeletons hiding in the closet so I won't point out any shortcomings. laugh The one thing I did notice is that it's too bad you don't have the original screws mounting your data plate any more. I've not found any place that sells those.

Value is a difficult thing to assess. It depends on how bad the seller want's to sell and how bad the buyer want's to buy. I have my 38 insured for $30K agreed value through Grundy.

Can someone point out to me what the vacuum advance looking thing connected to the bell housing is?


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Tiny #161653 01/11/10 10:18 AM
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Tiny, That vacuum advance looking thing, is actually the vacuum diaphram for the starterator unit. All Master Deluxe models had them. It is connected to linkage, that when you push on the gas pedal, it will start the car. Then the vacuum unit will disengage the linkage, from the gas pedal shaft.
_________________________________
Joe's 37

Last edited by Joe's 37; 01/11/10 10:30 AM.
Tiny #161658 01/11/10 11:11 AM
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Tiny,

I hope you are right about the value of your car. I based my "guess" on two sources. There is a value guide published monthly and what I see on eBay. Once in a while a car sells on eBay for significantly more than the average, but I have no reason to expect that mine would bring that higher price. My limited research also shows that the sedans are not the high value models, but it was what I wanted.

I have the insurance value set at $20k for my car.

Rich


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parking patriot wow Great car! Wouldn't mind owning it myself. I'm am not fault-finding but do have a question to satisfy my own mind. I have a '38 banjo wheel and it only has 4 stainless rods in each set of three going from the rim to the horn hub but I see the wheel on Maxine has 5. Were there different banjo steering wheels? I know the colors for '37 and '38 were different but didn't realize the basic wheel was different. Beamer


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The 1937 has five and the 1938 has three and the wheels are quite different.
The 1937 will not fit a 1938 because the 1937 has a key-way and the 1938 splines also.


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Rich, I based my value on what I have in the car & added a bit. I sent my project CD to Grundy asking for the $30K value and they agreed to it. My annual premium for full coverage with no deductible or annual mileage limit is $198. VERY reasonable.


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Tiny #161688 01/11/10 04:40 PM
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Tiny,

That is a great price on insurance. For a while I too had antique car insurance. However, I added an umbrella liability policy recently and since the '37 was not covered by my main insurrer, they were going to put in a surcharge to include that car under the umbrella liability policy. There were two options if I wanted to add this policy. Either pay the surcharge or include the '37 with everything else. So I now have it lumped into the main pot of insurance.

As to value, I hope you are right. However, my limited research does not support that high a figure for my car and since mine was a DIY project, I don't have that much $$$ invested.

Rich


1937 Master Deluxe 4-door Sport Sedan
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Tim, you said that I'm missing an "electro lock cable"... What is that?


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It's an ignition switch with a long sheilded cable with a special locking cap that would lock on top of the coil which is a special coil to fit the locking cap supposed to prevent hot wiring the car. Here is one from a truck basicly looks the same but the switch is different for a car.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1937...QimsxZ20100109?IMSfp=TL100109229006r2894

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So, it prevented someone from hooking the battery directly to the coil?


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Yes you had to have special toolto remove the cap off the coil.

http://gmhistory.chevytalk.org/elecoil.jpg

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Interesting... Is that the extent to the security of these vehicles (aside from door locks)? I've always wondered how they prevented every car from being stolen. I guess it was just a different time...


-Brendyn

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Even with the eletroloc in place all you need is a spare coil and two lengths of wire to get the engine started.

But when you figure there were just a few hundred key cut combinations (actually not even that many) for all GM cars from 1935 to 1966 there were easier ways to go.

Last edited by Chev Nut; 01/11/10 10:50 PM.

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Gene,
I'm looking at some Factory photos and the Accessories book and they show that the 38 DeLuxe steering wheel has 3 sets of 4 rods going out to the wheel.
Greg

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Greg, Your correct. Either its my eyes or I was counting on my hand that has three fingers blush


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So since the 37 has a different steering wheel with 5 rods, and the 38 has a wheel that attaches differently than a 37, what would have been done to fit the 37 wheel on the 38? do a little machine work on the steering wheel, or the steering shaft shaft or exchange the 38 column for a 37?
here is the 5 fingered wheel:
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Whatever was done it looks like a mighty fine steering wheel on a very nice looking coupe.


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