VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 1929 Brake Setup

Does anyone have photos of how the 1929 brakes are set up? Mine was disassembled when I bought it.
Also will a '30 diff work with the '29 Brakes?
Cheers
Jimmy

The rear brakes on the 29 are external, on the 30 they are internal, so they are not interchangeable. The whole rear differential and axle assembly for the 30 is different from the 29. The 29s front brakes are operated by rods where the 30s use a cable. I have been finding this out the hard way in the process of restoring my 29 coupe. Sorry I don't have any pictures but if you can find a service manual or parts book they should show what you need. Good luck.
Bill

Hi Jimmy B
Here are pictures of the rear brackes on my -29 pheaton


Arvid
http://www.chevroletnorge.com

One more pictures


From Norway
Arvid

http://www.chevroletnorge.com

Thanks guys!
Arvid, can I ask you to take a photo of the mechanism that bolts to the chassis?
Cheers
Jimmy

G'day Australia.
Here are a pictures of the mechanism.


From a snowshower in Norway

Arvid

http://www.chevroletnorge.com

Very good illistrations, It is easy to see the simularities of the 29 to the 28 also the differences, which appear to be good improvements over the 28, the band guides on the 29 should be an easy improvement to make on the 28. From what I saw in the last picture there is a lot of simularity in the 28 and 29 cross shaft bushings, along with improved pull back springs.

In Arvid's latest picture it looks like the cross shaft bushings may have been replaced. The rivets in the bushing bracket have been replaced with screws. Where can I get replacement bushings for my 29? The ones the Filling Station offers are the wrong size for 29. What is the bushing material made of? I was thinking of having the whole cross shaft assembly cleaned by Alkaline Electrolytic Immersion, but if that eats up the bushings I'll need replacements.
Bill

Hi Bill
You have right. I have grind of the orginal rivets to separate the bushingplate.
Then I have make a new bronze bushing to fit the worn shaft. This bushings, I must cut them in two pices and put them over the worn shaft. Therefor the screws.I have done this to avoid rattles in the brakes. And, My -29 are quiet when I drive it . Even if the road are bumpy. And here in Norway we have a lot of this road.
Regards
Arvid

Say Arvid,

How do you make new bushings?

Jim

Arvid, I understand you cut across the bushings to make two half cylinders so that they will pass the unworn ends and fit the worn part, rather than turning the ends of the shaft down?
I had planned to pour bushings from hard babbit to fit the housings using a mandrel with a slight taper around .003" smaller than the cross shaft, and a sand or plaster of paris mold of the interior of the housings.then drill it for about .004 clearance. if the cros shaft is worn. I can split the bushings, the same as you did. Thanks for the idea. That is unless the wall thickness is so thin that I may need to use some tubing or flat copper stock rather than babbit. I have several sizes of high pressure tubing stock. I worry about too much stuff, just need to get the cross shafts out where I can work on them. I have a big hammer!

Good Grief, I posted the same message twice.

Thanks for that Arvid :)
I hope to get the motor running by the new year and I need brakes to go for a run down my driveway

"The rivets in the bushing bracket have been replaced with screws."

I wonder if the screws will work on my 31, and if so, do I need a lock washer? Looks like I may have a project this weekend.

Jarhead,

Me too. I've got two sets of 1929 cross shafts now. It looks like the bushings have twisted inside the mounting plates so I think if I take them apart, I can clean, grease and align them again. They rotate fine until I try to line up the brackets.

We'll need something to lock them on, locktite or lock washer. I think I'll leave mine loose until the whole mess is back in place.

Interesting design, two steel shafts rotating 30 to 40 degrees in bushings exposed to a constant spray of road dust dirt and slush, with no means to grease them. Three cheers for hydraulics!!

Jim

Done! Drilled the 8 rivets on the brackets, filed the rust and grime and smoothed it with emery cloth for the 4 inchese on each end where the brackets live. Left the inside bracket alone -- with all the drip from the motor, trans and universal it was fine.

Got the bushing working well with grease and greased the inside of the brackets as well to allow some rotation. Put it back together with screws, lock washers and nuts in place of the rivets.

I replaced the front brake cam pieces as well.

The pedal comes back up fast! The brakes are week and all the way to the floor, but the cars stops. I'll rework the adjustments next weekend.

But, I got to drive around the neighborhood today

I was able to drive my '29 coach around the neighbor and then some today, too. No transferred title, no insurance and a 1929 Florida
plate. But, I did have some brakes! They are also
weak and went to the floor when I tested to see if
they would lock-up. More fine tuning to come.

The front brake cross shaft was also froze up pretty bad. I was able to free it up on the car with "kroil" penetrating oil and a brass hammer.
I was going to lube the pot metal bushings with some spray white lithium, but have decided to use
some spray graphite instead.

It had been 36 years since I last owned a 1929 coach. It sure does feel good to have another one!
Yes, you can go home again....... Bob