VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 1925 Ignition switch

When I turn the key on the ignition switch, I get power to start the engine. But when I turn the light switch, there is no power to any of the lights. Am I missing something in the switch that sends power from say the BAT terminal (on the inner ring of the switch) to the light's terminals on the switch's outer switch ring?

Chevy 2550

I had may problems this yr with my primary circuit and the lights and horn would not work. If your 25 is like my 27 look under dash at the mass of wires that are part of that circuit, my problem was broken wire and bad crimp on connector. Just gotta go slow and one wire at a time. Can also try your meter and shake them wires. Good luck mine drove me crazy.

Ken 45145

Thanks, but I don't think that is my problem. Everything is new and I have everything apart. I get power to the Coil and Bat, and I get a reading for the horn--but nothing on the headlight, side and rear terminals in the seitch.

you got a broken wire find it with meter

good luck

make sure that the body is grounded to the frame and the battery ground is tight the motor is gounded to the frame \
from the motor mounts but the body may no be

vukie racing

Is your ignition/light switch made by the Clum Manufacturing Company or is it a REMY switch?If it's made by CLUM,you may find that the switch contact plate is made out of a fibre material,not unlike the same material as red fibre gaskets.If so,check to see if the contact plate is warped.This will cause the moving contacts that wipe over the fixed contacts to either make bad or no contact at all.
Another cause may be that the small springs that keep tension on the moving contacts may have broken or they may be rusted and weak in the tension they apply to the moving contact
points.
The REMY switches genereally have a moulded bakelite contact plate and seldom give trouble,but,the small springs that do the same job on the CLUM moving contacts can also break or be rusted to the extent that they lose their proper tension.

Chevy2550,
The good thing about these old switches is that they can be taken apart and repaired. I had problems with my FB50 switch. Pulled it out, took it apart, found broken springs, dirt, oxidized contacts. I was even able to make keys while I had it apart. The switch works great now and has for several years. Just be careful with all the little parts. Use a magnet cup to keep the parts in and draw a diagram as you take it apart. It may be two or three weeks before it goes back together.
Hutch

Have you checked the fuse? The horn and coil contacts on the switch are not fused while all of the lighting circuits are.

On my switch, the horn is fused, and the rest are not. Am I not dealing with a '25 switch?

Thanks to all who have provided advice---I'll continue to watch if anyone else has a solution.

I stand corrected, the horn is a fused circuit and is feed directly across the fuse. The rotory portion of the switch does not come into play. With out seeing your switch none of us will know for sure if yours is for a '25 or not. If your switch has a key in the center of the light switch handle and it meets the descriptions posted previously in this thread, it's probably the correct one.

Check your PMs.