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Anodizing


Does any one know of a person place that can re anodize trim parts? I have some rocker panels that I would like to re do. thanks

Go here:

http://www.chicagoanodizing.com/

I will give them a call. I found a web page where it is a DIY self type. Using a battery charger and some acid, the only problem is that I would need a big tank as these rocker panels or quite long. I am thinking of stripping the old anodizing off and just shooting a clear on them. As they were bright dipped any way . So to me it is just a clear. That brings me to my next question, in judging how does simulated finishes judge? Particularly if one could not tell?

"....Particularly if one could not tell?...."

Not likely any points would be deducted if "it" isn't noticed. Regardless of what "it" might be.

Sort of like if a tree falls in the forest and no one is around to hear it does it make a sound?

If they can't tell? If they can't tell then they can't tell....and no points will be deducted.

That was a trick question.....wasn't it?

Yeah, that is true what I meant was the bright dip is really like a clear so it would be hard to tell. Here is a better wording for plaiting, how do the judges look on a part that was originally gold looking cadmium vs. the east woods golden cad paint?

The Eastwood stuff is just expensive gold spray paint! There is a member of the club who does this type of plating. He did the hood hinges on my 62 Biscayne, they look factory! I will get his address out to you when I get home. As far as a deduction we understand that certain environmental laws over the years have prevented getting certain plating done. We do have a printed policy in the handbook that we accept paint finishes that replicate plating, however it should look correct and not like paint. Hard to do, yes...... Do you want to take your hood off every two years to paint your hinges? Not me.
As far as anodizing trim on the car, I have had friends of mine remove the existing anodizing and polish the aluminum and cover it with clear, it looked pretty good. When you reanodize trim it will highlight all if the scrathes and imperfections.
John

If you want to try anodizing your rocker mouldings get a piece of plastic pipe wider than your mouldings and split it lengthwise and put end caps on and you have a tank that will not waste any acid.

sounds like a man who has done this before?

Have you considered Caswell Plating in NY? They have a manual the describes in detail a lot of the plating/anodizing processes. http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/aluminum.htm
If you’re dead set on DIY rather than having them professionally anodized, one of their kits using a PVC tank like woody suggested might work for your project.

I’ve anodized very small parts like 6” aluminum wheel halves and small fittings turned on the lathe using a 6v battery for a power supply, sulfuric acid electrolyte (battery acid) and foil for the cathode, although knowing what I know now I would probably use 6061 aluminum sheet.

Here is a link that will answer a few more of your questions. http://www.finishing.com/344/13.shtml Although one contributor suggests using 6061 and another 6063, either will work but the later is usually found in aluminum extrusions. The sheet and plate is typically made from 6061 alloy .

There are also several plating forums in the Yahoo Groups that are very helpful and informative, here’s just one. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/anodizing101/?yguid=38655850
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Bright dip anodizing is slightly different in the electrolyte
mixture to standard anodizing, as it contains ( from memory)
Hydrogen peroxide in the electrolyte, to give that very shiny finish.