VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 Fly Wheel removal

I posted another message about the flywheel but I must be missing something. I asked about any tricks to pulling the flywheel but I did not state the year of the vehicle. It is a 29 6 cyl. and maybe I am missing something but I don't see a 3/4 bolt that was referred to in the other postings. Have I not dug deep enough? I have the clutch out and pressure plate off.
Thanks for your assistance.

Well I got the flywheel off without to much difficulty. My objective is to be able to attach the engine to the engine stand to work on it. Should I pull the clutch pilot bearing and the bell housing before I attach the engine to the stand? If so how do I get the clutch pilot bearing off?

You need to remove the bell housing and bolt the engine stand directly to the block. Try to center the weight so the engine can be safely and easily rotated. I have always had to modify the engine stand arms to be able to center it.

No need to remove the bushing/bearing. 1929-30 used a pilot bushing, 1931-39 used a ND 7109 bearing unless you are replacing it. I use a slide hammer with carriage bolt that just fits into the bushing/bearing, slide to one side and then pull the bushing/bearing out. If that does not work then you will need to screw in a bolt and use the threads on the bolt to grab the bushing and pull it out.

Thanks Chipper. I'll give that a shot. Appreciate your input.

elanger.

Perhaps too late with this post but have read and talked to people who remove pilot bushing by filling up bushing to about 1/2 with regular axle grease, than having a tight fitting bolt that just clears interior of bushing and smacking bolt with hammer. Has been claimed that the hydraulic pressure will force the bushing out. Comments anyone???

Jim.

That should work too.

Got the flywheel off. You are right about centering the engine. I do have the engine on the stand but I am afraid to turn it on its side that is for sure.
Chipper, What specifically did you do to modify the stand? If you want to send a picture of the modification you could send one to my email address if that would be easier.

Thanks.

Each engine stand type has different length arms and slots in the plate. I take the plate and tube out of the stand and then fit it to the engine by trying to position the arms is such a manner to center the engine. Sometimes it is necessary to drill holes in the plate to relocate the arms. Or drill holes in the arms to make the adjustment. Since your engine stand is likely different than mine pictures likely will not help.

i had the same problem.
i had a freind who had a friend, who had an engine stand he said i could borrow. he had this engine stand for big block v8`s. no matter how i tried to put my engine on this stand. i didn`t feel good about it and i didn`t want to drill any new holes on a borrowed stand. other friend found me a stand that worked but i had to mount the tube part upside down and i still wasn`t to happy with it. but after i pulled the head off my engine is was ok to rotate my engine byself. these engines seem to be top heavy.

Both were very good comments and I can easily what both of you are saying. I too am using a borrowed stand and don't feel like I should drill new holes. I also see the top heavy comment. I will figure something out. Thanks.

The conventional Harbor Freight engine stand that allows you to rotate the engine block is not too good for the 216 and 235 blocks. I have two 235 engines mounted on them complete with head, pan and manifolds and the stands are rated for 2000# I would reccomend caution and supporting the crank pully with a Engine crane or a chain hoist with a strong v-belt or nylon strap in the belt groove of the crank pully when you need to rotate the engine. I have rotated the 235 without using any help and used a long (6') piece of 1 3/8" high pressure steel tubing and it turned out to be very scary.

This stand is rated for 1000# be very carefulif you use it on a Chevrolet inline six!



If you work on 216 and 235 engines a lot I would reccomend building a stand out of 2" square tubing along the style of a car body rotisserie and having a wide and long footprint with 4 good swivel casters on the corners. One guy that i know used 2x4s and 1" plywood and built a nice engine stand for his shop to store 235 engines and be able to move them around.
I think it is funny when someone is building a hot rod 46 - 54 Chevy, with a SBC enginte and wants to know if he needs to put in a Mustang front end to support the "extra weight of the V/8!

According to the specs in the book my engine is a 194 ci. Have you had experience with that engine on an engine stand.
It is cumbersome and a bit top heavy as it currently sits.

The 194, 207 216 and 235 engines all basically mount the same on an engine stand. I have rebuilt several of the 194s using two different stands. I first used a three wheeled stand that was really tippy and a hazard if extreme care was not taken. Now have one similar to the one pictured. It is much better. You will just need to work with the one you have to center the engine on the stand. I would pay most attention to centering without the head as that is configuration that you will do the most rotating.

Thanks Chipper. That is exactly what I will do.