VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 Smoking 29

I almost hate to ask, but I need your help. My 29 runs great, but burns oil like a Studebaker. The head has been reworked, cracks fixed, new seats, valves, springs et al. The block was rebuilt many years ago, but set until this summer. I thought running would free things up and the oil burn would stop. No such luck. Pulling the block is not going to happen soon, so I would like to know about additives or other ideas. Do you have any suggestions?

Hello
Have you switched to a second oil this year than usual?
What type of oil you're running with now?
If it is a new type of oil you use in years, what type of oil you used as previous years?

If the rings are "stuck" I would suggest removing the spark plugs and pouring in about 2 ounces of Marvel Mystery oil in each cylinder and let soak for a day. Eventually the MMO will seep into the pan and that will help when engine is running and car is driven.

Some higher speed driving may help. Without knowing what kind of rings were installed and if properly "gapped" its kind of hard to say.

Years ago I rebuilt the engine in my '34. I used some good looking old stock rings and the oil ring had an expander behind it. It smoked like crazy and burnt oil. Next I installed some Chevrolet brand rings with expanders. Same thing. Last I ordered a set of modern chrome rings for a 1950 Studebake Commander. The oil ring in that set had the same specs as the '34 Chev. Just installed the oil rings and the smoking and oil consumption stopped.
A 1929 doesn't get that much oil up to the rocker arms so I would doubt if the oil is running down the valve guides.

I am using 30 weight non detergent same as always. I will try the marvel oil. I too think the rings are stuck. The engine was fine when it was parked, and has less than a thousand miles since rebuild. Of course that rebuild was in 1965. I would be stuck too if I set in one place for 45 years.
The cylinder walls were very good when the head came off a few months ago

Switching to a detergent oil 10W-30 or 20W will help also. If the engine was rebuilt only 1000 miles ago then there should not be enough sludge in the engine to create a problem. It may take some time to get the rings freed. If you have problems finding MMO automatic transmission fluid (ATF) will also work to free the rings. A glug of ATF with each gas fillup will help to keep the intake valves from sticking.

Chipper,

I do not have a ring problem on '32 but I am interested in preventative maintenance. Tell me more about a glug of ATF with each gas fill up.

Are there any side effects to this practice?

No negatives that I know of. I don't always remember to add the glug. A little oil mist in the gas/air stream with coat the valve stem and also burn if in the cylinder.

It appears the ATF has reduced, but may noy have, eliminated the oil burn. I suspect a little road timme is needed to see actual improvement. At what point should I change the oil to get the "Trickle Down" ATF out of the pan?

I my self would not recommend the ATF as it is not formulated to burn in engines. For top oil addtive for the gas tank I would recommend either a non-detergent motor oil or a 2 cycle oil. I believe they would be more effictive.

There is really no rush to get the ATF out of the pan as it has a low flash (burn) point and will burn off during driving.

I am not sure about todays ATF but years ago it was not made from Fosil oil but animal fat oils.???

Some of today's ATFs are synthetic as well. I too would be concerned about burning it. Not for the engine, but for us. Who knows what toxins are given off by the stuff.

I have an old tractor that does the same thing after setting over winter and will keep smoking untill I put a load on it and get the engine good and warm then it comes out of it.